Day 26 - Saturday 28th May 2011

Sweetwater Station Junction to Rawlins     88 miles    DFP 1480

Looked in the mirror at the rest area and realised I must have lost at least a stone!!!  On the plus side my chronic lower back pain is gone. Did the 19 miles to Jeffrey City where I had breakfast in the Split Rock Cafe/Bar run by Vikky.  Chris, who had also reached Sweetwater Station Junction and camped at a Mormon centre, was just leaving.  Had the usual scrambled eggs, hashbrowns, sausage, toast etc but still feeling a little peckish and remembering my mirror image, I asked about the 'mid stack' of pancakes.  They're described as HUGE. Vikky gave me a knowing smile and told me nobody had managed to finish a 'mid stack'.  Well they have now!!!!!    This bar/cafe can truely be described as the centre of this little community.  A former uranium mining town of 5000, there's now just over 150, including the surrounding ranches.  It's where locals come for news; to eat; the US Mail service drops here; they run a web newspage and operate a local weather forecast system.  Sadly, other than myself and Chris, only two other motorists stopped and they only bought 1 dollar coffees to take away. 

Back on the road and crossed the Continental Divide again, although this time it's hardly noticeable.

Had a 3pm lunch at the Anna Lope cafe.  The Continental Divide actually separates way to the west of here and I initially had difficulty working out how this happens.  But now having seen it, it's like being in a large pudding plate with hills all round.  Crossed the Divide again shortly after but didn't stop for a photo as it was now pouring and I was soaked.  Got to Rawlins and had to use a motel.  The first so far.  The 'Jade Lodge' motel was not ideal but any port in a storm.  Still it gave me a bath. 

Updated: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library)

Day 25 - Friday 27th May 2011

Dubios to Sweetwater Station Junction     116 miles     DFP 1392

Had breakfast at the 'Cowboy' restaurant served by a Campbell who also had some Irish in him.  He did know the Campbells were from Argyle. The hills here are a deep orange sandstone.

Headed east on 287 with a fantastic tail wind and caught up with Chris, a mid 30 year old who was cycling between Eugene on the Pacific and Denver.  Was between jobs, having finished working for the New York Mayor's office and commencing a new contract with a Russian bank in Russia.  Managed first 40 miles in 3 hours but I then had my first experience of  'bonk'.  Was half way up a long gradual incline and all of a sudden there was just no fuel in the tank and I had to stop and eat.  Chris pressed on. As I approached Lander, spoke to a guy who was cycling from Argentina to Alaska, having set out 18 months ago.  And was he carrying a load!  It was Subway time at Lander, then the library but shouldn't have bothered as it shut 20 minutes after I arrived.  Bummer, or so I thought initially. Saw there was possible camping at Sweetwater Station Junction, so set off for a 30 mile evening ride.  Past site of Wyoming's first oil well. Wind still at my tail and then reached today's one and only serious climb from Beaver Creek to Beaver Rim.  A few zig-zags meant I was repeatedly getting a head or cross wind.  Not what you want after 100 miles on a loaded bike.  Still the view from Beaver Rim back to the Wind River valley which I'd cycled through all day was worth it.  Reached the rest area at Sweetwater Station Junction and managed to camp just before dark. 

Just as well I didn't spend time at the library.

Updated:  Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 24 - Thursday 26th May 2011

Signal Mountain (Grand Teton NP) to Dubios     65 miles     DFP 1276

Sleet was falling when I got up but it soon cleared.  Had breakfast in the lodge restaurant which also has superb views over Jackson Lake to the main mountain ridge. 

Also used the guest computer to update blog.  Set off at noon by returning to Jackson Junction then east to Moran Junction and Highway 287. After about 10 miles came to roadworks where they were operating a convoy system and I wasn't permitted to cycle and had to put the bike on the lead vehicle.  Rules is rules!  Once back on the road, it was upwards and upwards and upwards.   The highest point is Togwottee Pass at 9658' on the Continental Divide, the highest point on the trip so far. Now, as any good hillwalker knows, you never think you're at a summit until you're actually there.  Did I forget this golden rule? Yip, several times. Sadly the summit pass doesn't actually have a marker, or not one I could see above the 15' of banked up snow by the roadside but took the photos anyway.

The sun was out and the view pretty spectacular.  Was having a bite to eat when I realised there had been a significant drop in temperature since my arrival, despite the sun.  Something was up.  Decided to loose height quickly, just before the wind got up. Like 'storm force'. On the way down I had to stop to take some photos of what I can only describe as a more rugged Cuillin Ridge.  Then the snow started to catch me up and when I looked round the Pass was not visible.  I would guess it was blizzard like up there and I was now really glad of the convoy lift which saved me half an hour.  Phew!!!!   Also had to take a photo of my first moose sighting by the roadside. 

Before reaching Dubios the rock structure changed from ignious to layered sandstone.  Camped in the town's public park.

Updated: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 23 - Wednesday 25th May 2011

Madison (Yellowstone NP) to Signal Mountain (Grand Teton NP)      87 miles     DFP 1211

Would have liked to stay longer but while today's forecast was OK, Thursday's was back to sleat/snow, so I had to move on.  Said goodbye to Loinel (who was cycling back to West Yellowstone and the first of numerous buses to Vancouver) and headed south on Highway 287 to climb over the Continental Divide twice (8262' and 8391') at Craig's Pass.

At Grant's Village the clouds disappeared and the sun came out as I continued south on 287, leaving Yellowstone by the south entrance.  287 then continues as the John D Rockerfeller Jnr Memorial Parkway and I entered Grand Teton National Park.

Jackson Lake is reached and I have to be honest, words now fail me.  To the west side of the lake is the Grand Teton main mountain ridge.  It is unbelievably beautiful.  I can only thank Mr John D Rockerfeller Jnr for purchasing and donating 30 odd thousand acres of this mountain terrain to the people of the United States.  This was added to by others.  Honestly, words fail me. Just stunning.

By the time I reached Jackson Junction I was starving so on asking about restaurants, I'm directed to the Jackson Lake Lodge (http://www.gtlc.com/).  Now this can only be described as upmarket.  Picture me: I reek, having not washed in days; my white ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND 'T' shirt is all sweat stained; and my hair is all over the place.  Still, nothing ventured, as they say, so parked the bike at the front door (no need to lock it here - trust me) and went 'where no (sweaty) man has gone before', the reception desk.  "Certainly sir, can we recommended  the Pioneer Grill".  So far so good.  On the way up to the restaurant carrying my bag with its Saltire flying, was approached by a lady who previously stayed at Murrayfield, Edinburgh when her husband worked in Ferranti.  They now stay in Miami but are on vacation at the lodge.  The special of spaghetti and meatballs with loads of carbs was required.  Spoke to a couple with Scottish ancestor connections and who both have experience of looking after relatives who had dementia.  Funny how despite my appearance, folks were really interested in the trip and willing to talk to me.  And to Georgi (my server) and his wife, who I both spoke to for a bit,  if your dream after graduation is San Diego, "Go for it".   I should add that the whole of the west wall of the lodge is glass, so the views over to the mountains are just superb.  As is no surprise, the bike was still outside and I headed down to Signal Mountain Resort (http://www.signalmountainlodge.com/) where I got the hiker/biker rate at 5 dollars.

Update: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library)

Day 22 - Tuesday 24th May 2011

Madison to Madison (Yellowstone National Park)    29miles     DFP 1124

I'd intended to do the circular trip round what they call the northern loop today, which would have been about 100 miles and manageable with an early start and on an unloaded bike.  Sadly there was snow/sleet falling when I awoke, so just had to lie there.  Improved by lunch time, so headed north passing Gibbon Falls

to the Norris Basin geyser area.  Again, I was really impressed with these lesser known geysers.  The fact that simple living organisms can survive and thrive in these extreme temperatures and acidity levels is just amazing.  The snow/sleet returned just as I was about to return, so was soaked through by the time I reached the tent.

As it was tourist stuff today, nothing added to DFP.

Updated: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 21 - Monday 23rd May 2011

West Yellowstone to Madison (Yellowstone National Park)     55 miles     DFP     1124

Called at tourist office in West Yellowstone and spoke to a Park Officer who did his degree in Edinburgh University.  Stayed in the Canongate and Newington for 4 years.  Loved it apparently.  Sadly he told me the camp site (Grant Village) I'd planned to stop at wasn't yet open and I'd need to use Madison which was only 14 miles away.  Turned out OK though.  Outside the building I met Lionel, a young lad from Paris who had left the east side of Canada last year, cycled down through the States, across the bottom and was now working his way up to Vancouver, before doing about 1000 miles to Montreal.  He was using other forms of transport at times but still a major undertaking.  He was a former 'busker' in Liverpool, who now manages a local band/group in Paris. We half chummed each other along to Madison passing into Yellowstone National Park

and the state of Wyoming.

Having arrived on bikes at the camp site we got the 7 dollar hiker/biker rate.  In the afternoon I did the 16 mile trip to see Old Faithful, being the biggest tourist draw but must admit was far more impressed by all the other geysers at three other sites (Fountain Paint Pot, Midway Geyser Basin and Biscuit Basin) I visited on the way back. The colours, smells and information boards made them all very interesting.  Treated to bison walking along the road on the way back. 

Did the camp fire thing in the evening.

Have only added 14 miles to DFP due to most of today's mileage being touristy stuff.

Updated:  Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 20 - Sunday 22nd May 2011

Cameron to West Yellowstone     59 miles     DFP 1110

Freezing start to the day with a stiff headwind.  Called in a West Fork RV park and ate 2 lovely, huge cinnamon rolls accompanied by 3 coffees with sugar. Very pleasant speaking to Chuck and Barb (a Gordon who has visited Scotland with Chuck).  Really needed the carbs and sugar, so wasn't embarrased having their last two pastries.  Eventually did reach and call in at the Driftwaters RV Resort, which I'd never have reached the previous day, as it's so far south. Continued south through Madison Canyon Earthquake area and the headwind eased as I turned east.  Stopped at Earthquake Lake, formed in the 1950s when an earthquake brought down a chunk of the hillside and blocked the Madison River.

Also saw my first sitting bald eagle.

It was then on by Hebden Lake and dam before turning south to West Yellowstone.   Made the mistake of having tea at a McDonald's.

Updated: Signal Mountain Resort (Grand Teton National Park)