Day 74 - Friday 15th July 2011

Fredericksburg to Washington DC     67 miles     DFP n/a

I sat chatting over breakfast with Patty and Paul until just after 9 when it was time to head off, especially as I wanted to reach the end of the road today.  We said our farewells and a couple of additional photos were taken.  To Patty and Paul, "Many thanks for making me so welcome and allowing me to share your lovely home.  It was a great pleasure meeting you both and I really appreciated the interest you took in my trip. Please take care and best wishes".

Due to the difficulties following the signage for cycle route 1 yesterday, I decided to simply use Highway 1 north.  As it runs parallel with Interstate 95 I thought it would be pretty quiet.  Initially that was the case and I did stop at a diner for an all day breakfast and pancakes/syrup.  Also stopped at the library in Dumfries as I was making fairly good time.  This was probably a mistake because when I resumed cycling, Friday rush hour had started.  There then followed probably the hairiest part of the whole trip.  Two busy lanes with hardly any hard shoulder and lots of debris.  But then followed safety in the form of the Mount Vernon trail, where motor vehicles are prohibited.

Stopped to reminisce and take in some fuel when I was approached by a young couple, Simon and Katherine who had recognised my Scotland flag.  They're from England, have just moved to Washington and very kindly gave a donation for ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.  To you both, "Many thanks".

The trail is about 15 miles long and is a pleasure.  Then I had the first view of Washington Monument, situated in the centre of the capital and the point I was treating as THE final end point.

Crossed the Potomac River and I was there.  Stopped for a photo in front of Lincoln Memorial then made towards Washington Monument.

Reached it and the trip was over.

Arrived just after 6.30pm having covered 4687 miles since leaving Seattle.  What more can I say other than, "I've had a wonderful time and have absolutely no regrets".

Got to Cathedral Avenue just before it got dark and was warmly welcomed by Nancy and Dante, two old friends.  I've now got some true vacation time to wander the city.

Update: Washington DC

Day 73 - Thursday 14th July 2011

Ashland to Fredericksburg     65 miles     DFP n/a

Set off fairly early and continued north on cycle route 1 which I managed to follow without much difficulty until crossing over Interstate 95.  From there however, I seemed to loose the way.  Not sure if it was poor observational skills on my part or the signage.  Anyway I managed to regain the correct way after visiting General Stonewall Jackson's shrine.  Decided food and fluid were needed, so headed into Fredericksburg where I also called into the library.  Fredericksburg is a lovely town with loads of relatively recent history.  Birth place of George Washington and location of several civil war battles.  The architecture is also worth mentioning.

On leaving town to continue north, I stopped and asked a chap on a Harley-Davidson motor cycle for directions to local shops.  Five minutes later he drew along side and asked if I'd like to stay the night with himself and his wife.  Now bear in mind, I was a total stranger, had not showered in almost a week (the swim in the James River really not counting), was pretty dishevelled and was probably in need of a considerable amount of deodorant but despite this, here was I being warmly invited into their home. As a consequence I had the great, good fortune of meeting another lovely, warm and very hospitable couple, Paul and Patty Fiore, their labrador Kenai and slightly aloof cat.

They very kindly allowed me to shower, eat with them and sleep in a bed.  This on what will probably be the final night of my actual cycle across the USA.

Updated Dumfries, Virginia (library).

Day 72 - Wednesday 13th July 2011

Scotland to Ashland     84 miles     DFP n/a

I should maybe mention that last night I initially intended setting up a bivi by the river but after about 30 seconds when the mosquitoes found me, decided I'd better think again.  There's just something unique about the buzzing noise made by mosquitoes.  It's unnerving. Problem is for tent read sauna.  Should I go for mosquitoes or sauna,  mosquitoes or sauna.  Sauna got my vote but just as I thought, the minute I got inside, the sweat started pouring out.  And that was with the two outer doors wide open.  Not the inners obviously.  Things got a little better sometime after midnight and the next I knew it was five and time for the ferry.  Third time over in 12 hours and at no cost.  Bonus.  A holiday just isn't complete without a short ferry crossing.   

Followed Route 5, which is also cycle route 76, westwards but decided to go right into Richmond for shops and more importantly fluid.  Another gallon of orange juice.  Picked up Cycle route 1 north out of the city and found it reasonably simple to follow the signage.  Reached Ashland and luckily called into the library, second time today.  That saved me a soaking from one of those hour long storms.  Also had a nice chat with a local who mentioned a church about 8 miles north of town where I could camp.  During this part, cycle routes 1 and 76 combine.

So off I went and reach the Fork Episcopalian church in plenty time to set up the tent and cook supper. 

Updated: Fredericksburg, Virginia (library)

Day 71 - Tuesday 12th July 2011

Virginia Beach to Scotland     76 miles     DFP n/a

Up early as I didn't want to worry any early dog walkers.  Sat having breakfast watching 4 osprey fishing about 100 yards away.  Don't think I've ever seen so many osprey than along this coast line of Virginia.  I then retraced yesterday's route through Norfolk/Portsmouth/Suffolk then headed north on Highway 17.  This came to a halt at the James River bridge which doesn't permit cycles.  So had to backtrack a little to pick up road 10 north.  Stopped at the historic St Luke's church for a little fuel intake and was just setting off again when I realised the rear tyre was punctured.  Bummer but it couldn't have happened at a better place as there's handwashing facilities at the church.  Job done and headed north to Surry and a big drink.  Read 1 gallon big drink of orange.  Next was Scotland and the ferry over the James River to historic Jamestown.  At 7pm the display board was reading 92 degrees.  What it was during the day, I've no idea.
Sailed to Jamestown with views back to Scotland.

Right off the ferry there's a picnic area where folks were swimming, so that had to be the overnight stop.   The swim was just great.  My meal was OK also but then the state park officer came and very apologetically and politely emptied me out.  Pity.  Still,  just got to make the most of things and got back on the ferry and returned to Scotland where I'd seen a suitable spot right by the river and at the end of the jetty road.  So I can now say, "I've stayed in two Scotlands".

Updated: Richmond, Virginia (library)

Day 70 - Monday 11th July 2011

Suffolk to Virginia Beach      65 miles     DFP 4010

On the road by 6 o'clock heading south on 627 before turning east on 337.  Things started to get busier as I neared Chesapeake and Portsmouth. Portsmouth and Norfork are divided by the Elizabeth River which has no bridge suitable for pedestrians/cyclists, so the crossing must be made by a quaint little ferry.

The ticket guy gave me the 'senior' return fare without even asking.  Ehhhhhhh, while that starts at 60 and I'm 59, I know it's close but!!!!!!!  Get use to it Andrew.  Getting through Norfolk on 166 was easy but once on Highway 13 which goes to the Cheaspeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel things got a bit hairy, so I diverted onto  166 and then east again on Highway 60.  This goes by First Landing State Park which was nice.  Then 'it' was there, crossing the bridge over the Lynnhaven Bay inlet, I saw the Atlantic for the first time.  Just a few yards away.

Didn't want to rush things, so continued on Highway 60 until I picked up Ocean Front Avenue and then the 'Boardwalk' at Virginia Beach proper.  Had to savour the moment a little, so had a couple of banana pieces and a Danish pastry (who says I don't know how to celebrate) before wandering slowly down the 'Boardwalk'.  Then at the end, hauled the bike over the soft sand and with the help of a guy from the Netherlands, who now stays locally, got the necessary photographs.

Miles for today 46 and with the ODO sitting at 5097 the 'crossing' was over.  It was 1.30PM and there's nothing between here and the Scottish coast somewhere roughly to the north/east.
JOB DONE.  Dream/ambition realised.  What more can I say.  Well maybe, YIPEEEEEEEEEE. I estimated 4000 miles for the trip and it turned out at 4010.  Now just the small matter of cycling the 250 odd miles up to Washington DC. 

Updating this in Virginia Beach library but will head back to the beach now and wander up and down.  Might even go for a swim.  Who knows.  Will finish today's entry in a couple of days or so.

Didn't bother with a swim, just wandered then headed back up Highway 60 to Lynnhaven, found a nice bit of Chesapeake Bay Beaches and set up a bivi.

Watched a nice sunset and then I had the place to myself.

Updated: Virginia Beach, Virginia. (Then Portsmouth library on 12th)

Day 69 - Sunday 10th July 2011

Chester to Suffolk     89 miles     DFP 3964

Said my farewells to Iain, Erin, Mackenzie, Lennox and Keeli the dog and I was back on the road by 10.

Took some back roads until I reached 10, then headed south.  I was joined by another cyclist, Bob Mohan, out for a day ride from home.  He took me out to City Point before returning to 10.  Shortly after, he headed off over the James River, while I continued on 10.  At Surry (correct spelling) I took a little detour to Scotland Ferry which was originally going to be the 'official' end point of the crossing of the USA.  Took a couple of photos and recorded the mileage as 51 miles for the day and an ODO reading of 5015.

Whilst Scotland Ferry is tidal and would have done had I been short of time, I'm away ahead of schedule and as such decided to now end the crossing at Virginia Beach.  So it was back to Surry and south again on 10.  Just after Smithfield I picked up Highway 258, then Highway 17 which took me into Suffolk and over Nansemond River where I got a photo of 2 ospreys.  Cut south on 627 where I found a camping spot for the night.  Want an early start in the morning.

Updated: Virginia Beach, Virginia (library)

Day 66 - Day 68 Thursday 7th to Saturday 9th July 2011

No cycling.  Staying with friends in Chester, Virginia.  Will expand later.

Day 65 - Wednesday 6th July 2011

Keysville to Chester     91 miles     DFP 3875

On setting out found there's a prohibition against cyclists using H360 so backtracked a little to 40 and passed through Lunenbuerg and Kentbridge before reaching Blackstone where I joined H460 for a while before picking up the back roads of 153, 621, 602, 621 and 655 heading for my destination at Chester where I will be staying for a few days with friends Iain and Erin and their children Mackenzie and Lennox. How's that for good Scottish names and here in the heart of Virginia.  On reaching Pocahontas State Park the sky opened again with the usual downpours.  As a result the final 10 miles took over 2 hours.  Should have take 45 minutes.  So was glad to get here and remove rather wet and very unpleasant clothing.

Updated: Chester, Virginia.

Day 64 - Tuesday 5th July 2011

Sandy Hill to Keysville     73 miles     DFP 3784

Said farewell to Kendell who offered up a prayer and continued east on 40.  Was relatively quite up until Gretna then I had the road almost to myself.  Sort of hilly to start with but then flattened out. Stopped at Brockneal for lunch at the local 'Subway'.   When placing my order with Lani Killman, she gave a 10 dollar donation to ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.  To Lani, "Thank you for your generosity".  Whilst eating lunch I was approached by Jennifer Maxfield, a reporter for the local Union Star newspaper  
www.theunionstar.com  
who'd been informed I was passing through and asked if she could conduct an interview.  Sure.  Turns out two of Jennifer's grandparents had been affected by dementia, so she was very well aware of the need to highlight the needs of those concerned and their carers.  The article goes out on Wednesday 13th July and can be accessed on-line.

Continued east on 40 passing through Phenix and Charlotte Court House before stopping for the night at Keysville intending to us H360 in the morning.

Whilst still probably in the low 90s I think the humidity has been less oppressive because I've not found it so exhausting.  Either that or I'm just getting use to it.

Updated: Chester, Virginia.

Day 63 - Monday 4th July 20211

Dugspur to Sandy Level     76 miles      DFP 3711

Sort of day of changing decisions, all of which worked out well.  But that's only due to luck and not calculated forethought. My plan was to follow H221 to just east of Copper Hill where I'd pick up the Blue Ridge Parkway, then come off at road 24 and maybe stop at Stewartsville.  However, due to the switchback nature of 221, when I reached Floyd, decided just to go up to the Parkway from there.  Turned out there was practically no ascent involved.  Headed north on the Parkway

and called into Smart View picnic/viewpoint area.

It was here I rechecked the map and realised there was no places to pick up provisions/water until Stewartsville, some 40 odd miles away and in this heat, not a good idea.  So made the second change of the day by coming off the Parkway on 640 to Rocky Mount.  This turn out to be a major descent and was glad I wasn't going the other way.  On the way down, stopped by a creek for a bite to eat and drink, during which time dark clouds and thunder passed overhead but I stayed dry.  Two miles further and the roads were soaking.  Reached Rocky Mount and was in Walmark when the skies opened.  Fair storm with the usual thunder and lightning.  So wandered round with an empty trolley for a couple of hours.  Had I stuck to my original route, would have been up on the Parkway at the time.

On it easing a bit, headed east of  40 where I came upon Sandy Level and its Baptist Church.  Spoke to Pastor Kendell Smith who explained he maintained an open door policy in respect of the church and church hall with its kitchen and toilet, for travellers.  In addition, I was invited into his house to meet his wife Francine, daughter Sarah and son-in-law Tommy, offered use of their shower, provided with a folding bed and sat down to a meal.  Finally I was given a very generous donation for ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.  Just super hospitality and thoughts for others.  To Kendell, Francine, Sarah and Tommy, "Thank you so very, very much.  It was really appreciated. Please take care".

Updated:  Chester, Virginia.

Day 62 - Sunday 3rd July 2011

Troutdale to Dugspur     66 miles     DFP 3635

Was a nice sun rise

before I had breakfast with Norm and Kip at the local diner when we exchanged experiences, theirs being far more comprehensive than my own. I'm just a novice compared to them. Think it's fair to say they've walked extensively throughout the world. They are very thankful for being blessed with good health but at the same time they do everything they can to maintain well being.  And it's obviously working.  So to Kip and Norm, "Thank you".  Also to Roman and Max for looking after the hostel which is a wonderful facility in this small and remote community.

Headed off south on 16 to pick up H58 at Volney, which in turn heads east to Independence.  Don't know if it wasn't so humid or if I was uplifted having listened to Kip and Norm but things seemed easier this morning and I seemed to have more energy. Continued on through Galax and Hillsville, by which time the ups and downs were getting more challenging.  At about 60 miles I was about done.  Was then informed a severe storm was due and I'd better find some place safe. This came in the form of the large picnic shelter at the volunteer Fire and Rescue Service building in Dugspur.

As it turned out the storm passed away to the south and I had a perfect evening.  Nothing lost as I was ready to stop anyway and probably couldn't have gone much further.

Updated: Chester, Virginia.

Day 61 - Saturday 2nd July 2011

Elk Gardens to Troutdale     60 miles     DFP 3569

Said farewell to both Laura and Chuck

before following the very up and down road 80 to Meadowview.  I didn't set off until after 9, by which time the sun was up and it was hot and very humid.  Totally energy sapping.  At Meadowview I had a choice of routes.  Turn and head along Highway 11 which was probably fairly flat to reach Wytheville or continue as planned and take some minors roads going uphill to Damascus.  With how I felt energy wise and the heat/humidity decided on the former.  Got on the bike to hear someone say, "what a woose", so headed for Damascus.  Turned out a good gut change.  Was a bit of a climb to Damascus but on arrival found it full of family cyclists.  Apparently several years ago it was a dying town but a business lady decided to set up a cycle hire company which ferried cyclist to the top of a hill and it was a ride back down. It's known as the Creeper Trail. There's now 15 other companies doing the same thing.  The town also lies almost on the world renowned  Appalachian walking trail which stretches from Georgia in the south to Maine in the north.  Some 2 to 3 thousand miles.

After a large, cool drink and banana piece (sandwich to those reading this outwith Scotland) I continued on Highway 58 and whilst initially it was flat, the climbing eventually arrived.  It went on a bit but only as I'd expected.  It was in fact a surprise when things did flatten out and a smile appeared.  Picked up 603 at Konnarock and found this also to be a relatively flat road despite being near the summit of Mount Rogers, which I think is the highest peak in Virginia.  Came upon Laurel Valley Community Church which is really pretty.

Troutdale was my planned stop and ended up with 2 'luckies'.  Arrived at the shop just as it was closing and the lady mentioned the Baptist Church free hostel in the town.  Headed up and initially met Roman Wall (walking name Lone Wolf) and his big, friendly dog Max.  Next to appear were Norm and Kip Smith (walking names the Pink Panthers).  Their story is worthy of mention.  Last year, Kip was asked what she wanted for her birthday and suggested to Norm that they re-walk the Appalachian Trail (known as the AT).  Just a few thousand miles.  Quite a feat in itself but if I mention it was Kip's 80th (sorry for mentioning it Kip) and they carry all their own stuff.  Tent, sleeping bag, stove, pans, water purification etc, etc.  Just amazing.

Updated: Brookneal, Virginia (library)

Day 60 - Friday 1st July 2011

Elkhorn City to Elk Gardens     54 miles     DFP 3509

Sat eating breakfast with a beaver, ducks and geese this morning.  Nice.

Continued on road 80 and almost immediately was climbing.  The gradients increased after about 8 miles when I left Kentucky and entered Virginia, the last State of the trip.

Then it happened.  First time so far but it had to come.  On the approach to Haysi, the climb was a toughie zig zag and with the weight, heat (over 90), humidity and probably lack of a substantial breakfast I had to stop and walk for a couple of 100 yards.  I was just beat.

Stopped at the Pizza Factory in Haysi for lunch and had a fish meal followed by three big pancake and loads of syrup.  The latter courtesy of the establishment so a "Big thank you". Needed the sugar rush.  After Haysi the road was just perfect. A gradual climb following a creek which was flowing in the opposite direction.  Trees on all sides.  As mentioned earlier the humidity was high. My watch tells me - the face mists up.  On reaching town of Council I looked down on the following scene.  I'll give you one guess as to what I did.

After the town of Council I had the second tough climb but was able for this one.

Had been told of a camping facility in Elk Gardens so headed for there.  It's the United Methodist church and hall and the doors are left unlocked at all times for residents and cyclists.  Just great.  Met Laura (as can be seen from her blog        http://www.lauraleeson.wordpress.com/          she is a very gutsy young girl who is cycling across the USA heading for Glacier Park, Montana) and Chuck (a 62 year old who is heading for California).  They met and are chumming each other for a bit.  To you both, "Take care and enjoy".

Updated: Hayters Gap, Virginia (library)

Day 59 - Thursday 30th June 2011

Salyersville to Elkhorn City     75 miles     DFP 3455

Up early, hair done, make-up on, decided on my best side. Ehhhhh, no!  Ritter (Ritt) Mortimer, who along with his parents owns/operates 'Your News Today' (YourNewsToday@Yahoo.com) arrived just before 9 and we had a chat before the formal interview took place.  Covered the trip so far; what's to come; the reasons behind the journey and what I hoped to achieve.  Think I got most of what I wanted to say.  Apparently 'Your News Today' goes out to several counties in eastern Kentucky through the cable TV network.  They aren't set up on the internet yet, so that's not an option.   Ritt treated me to breakfast.  So to Ritt, "Thanks for taking an interest and you've done a lot to helped me spread the dementia awareness message".

On leaving Salyersville I headed east on 114 as 460 takes a more northerly route.  The road was very similar to yesterday.  Stopped at Prestonsburg for supplies and the library, then everything changed.  I rejoined 460 but it also serves as 23 and 80.  It's effectively an interstate/freeway. Dual carriageway, busy and fast. It does have a wide hard shoulder so was OK and the wooded hillsides are a visual diversion. At Pikeville, 460 breaks away and heads east which was my way.

At Belcher, I turned onto 80 as I wanted to camp at Elkhorn City and found a lovely spot by the river.

So today was relatively easy with no ascents of any note.  Tomorrow will be different I think.

Updated: Haysi, Virginia (library).

Day 58 - Wednesday 29th June 2011

Mount Sterling to Salyersville     81 miles     DFP 3380

It was time to leave and get back on the road.  Large breakfast provided and I was off about 9.30.  Wandered about the town centre a bit being a little reluctant to leave but it had to be done.  Had decided on Highway 460 and it turned out to be a good choice.  Although there isn't much of a hard shoulder, there was little traffic.  The road winds about and has easy gradients.  The countryside is mainly small hills which are either farmed or wooded with both deciduous and coniferous trees.  Also lots of little creeks/gullies. There's also plenty of houses with the huge lawns with the folks out in their small tractors doing the mowing.  Super cycle which helped balance the sadness of leaving good and true friends.

On reaching Salyersville I was fortunate enough to come across Burning Fork Community Church where the kids/adults were just tidying up following an outdoor event in the grounds.  Pastor Eddie Dennison very happily allowed me to camp in the grounds overnight and we ended up chatting until almost midnight.

To Eddie, "Thank you".  Word of my passing through the town had also spread and Eddie received a call, asking if I'd be happy to give an interview with the local cable TV news channel.  More of that tomorrow.

Updated:  Perstonsburg, Kentucky (library).

Day 49 - Day 57 (Monday 20th - Tuesday 28th 2011)

Didn't do any cycling over this period but there's a few things worth recording. 

On Friday 24th I was asked to spend an overnight at the Episcopalian camp location 'Catherdral Domain' about 40 miles south of Mount Sterling.  It's currently being used as a summer camp for children and not just those with connection to that particular church.  Gave a couple of 45 minute talks to 2 groups but due to the ages involved, kept them focused on the trip and without mentioning much about dementia.  Instead I took the bike and all my gear and set everything up as though I was camping out for the night.  Seemed to go down OK.

Also gave a couple of talks to the congregation of The Church of Ascension in Mount Sterling.  Could I please take this opportunity to again thank everyone for the very generous donations to ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.

I'd also like to thank Bill Skidmore and Ollie McCormick for their donations.

Finally, to Bill, his wife Brenda and their friends Mark and Kim, thanks for the lovely afternoon and the chance of a swim in the pool.

Finally to Cindy and Gordon, thanks for everything.  I don't think there was a moment I didn't have some form of food in my hand.  Take care.

Day 48 - Sunday 19th June 2011

Bardstown to Mount Sterling     107 miles     DFP 3299

Hoped to get to Mount Sterling today so was up fairly early.  Just got things packed away before the first of several storms came over.  Usual routine of thunder, lightning and heavy rain.  Was still in the park so I used a shelter.  Hit the road when it dried about an hour later but was just on the outskirts of town when an even heavier storm hit and I had to resort to yesterday's tactic of cape and hunkering down at the base of a tree.  At Chaplin, called in at Miss Denise's Diner and was made very welcome despite my appearance.  Managed 5 pancakes and sausage as I desperately need a sugar rush.  To Denise, "Thanks for making up the pancakes specially and might I suggest you read a little about 'early onset' to give yourself some idea of what you'll be dealing with.  Your friend will need the support".

Continued east on Highway 62 passing through Lawrenceburg and picked up highway 60 at Versailes.  This took me right through the centre of Lexington and the 30 miles further to Mount Sterling.  Will spend a week or so here with Cindy and Gordon as the vacation part of my trip.  This will be a fattening up period and I probably won't bother including these days in the blog.

Updated:  Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Day 47 - Saturday 18th June 2011

Hartford to Bardstown     105 miles     DFP 3192

Set off really early at 5.30 on the basis if it rained later I'd still get in a good mileage.  Dry for a hour but then another thunder/lightning/rain storm arrived.  It's just not possible to cycle in these conditions and I pulled off the road, put on my old ex-army cape and hunkered down beneath a tree.  This lost me about an hour and a half but eventually I was on the road again and in need of a sugar rush.  Called in at a little diner in Leitchfield and ordered pancakes and syrup.  Whilst munching, I noticed from the map there was a time zone change a few miles ahead and turned to a family sitting next to me to ask them about it.  We had a nice chat including my trip and on them leaving and without mentioning, they paid for my breakfast.  So to Mr Wallace Anderson, his wife and daughter, "Thank you very much.  Although there was no need, it was appreciated".

Continued east on Highway 62 and on entering Hardin County crossed from Central to Eastern Time which meant I lost another hour. Sadly again, there's no actual sign.

On approaching Elizabethtown I encountered a little critter on the roadway.  Now I'm that type of person who stops and moves such critters but on this occasion I nearly did so at a cost.  Whilst this sort of looks like a small turtle, it's got a serious attitude problem. Its head is fast (very fast), has a beak or what passes for a beak and was very ungrateful when I moved it to a safer area.  Thankfully my fingers were faster than its head.  I'm told it is a snapping turtle which I'm sure I've seen on TV.  Ended up I had to use my foot to shove it to the side and my trainer ended up taking the 'snaps'.  It also has a neat trick when its on its back and despite being encase in a hard shell with its 4 feet, tail and neck/head off the ground, it is somehow able to flick itself upright again.

Finished the day by camping in Bardstown next to a State Park.

Updated:  Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Day 46 - Friday 17th June 2011

Equality to Hartford     101 miles     DFP 3087

Continued east on 13 stopping at Shawneetown for breakfast before crossing the Ohio River into the state of Kentucky.  Sadly there's no welcome sign. 

I then picked up 56 going roughly eastwards into Morganfield.  Called in at library but various emails prevented me from updating the blog. It was then back onto 56 passing through Tilden, Poole and Sebree.  At Beech grove picked up road 136.

Up until now I'd had various people asking me how I was coping with all the rain and they appeared sceptical with my reply of, "Haven't had any.  Sunny all the time".   Things were about to change.  At one little town I asked a couple of girls if they would be kind enough to fill my water bottles.  Wasn't a problem and at the same time they mentioned a storm was due in the area at 4.30 and it was 4.15.  There was a few clouds in to sky but otherwise things seemed fine.  Resumed cycling and about 10 minutes later the wind got up but as it was from behind I just thought of the mileage I'd cover.  Then I saw some people running about and noticed the sky was almost black.  Then seconds later the rain started.  I didn't even have time to shelter.  Ended up going into a culvert under the road. 

Thunder, lightning, storm force winds and torrential rain.  Just as well it was warm.  Still, it only lasted an hour and I continued on 136 to highway 231 and stopped for the night at Hartford.

Updated:  Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Day 45 - Thursday 16th June 2011

Johnson Creek Recreation Area to Equality     82 miles     DFP 2986

On setting off this morning discovered I'd lost the 'Lion Rampant' flag and its little stick which had been a feature on a the rear carrier.  I was not however going to retrace yesterday's mileage to try and find it.  Continued south on route 3 which was flat as it followed the Mississippi flood plain.  Things changed when I turned east on 149 to Murphysboro as I encountered ups and downs again.  The rest of the day was flat. Quick call at library then followed 13 east to Carbondale for another library visit.  Sent a message to the bike shop in Columbia thanking them for the quality service and to say I'd had no further problems with the rear tyre.  That was a mistake, as I obviously tempted fate and continuing east on 13 the new rear tyre was punctured by a small piece of silver backed mirror glass. On cycling through Marion and Harrisburg the skies changed.  This morning it was cloudless and very hot but later the clouds appeared and became very threatening.  I could only described them as being 'horror movie' like.  Camped near Equality where I had to use the tick remover a couple of more times.

Updated:  Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Day 44 - Wednesday 15th June 2011

Washington State Park to Johnson Creek Recreation Area     100 miles     DFP 2904

Being really pleasant in Washington State Park, I hung about a bit and didn't leave until 9.30.  Took road 21 to De Soto, then 110, Highway 47 and locals JJ, T and TT to Highway 61 which I followed to Sainte Genevieve. This gave me a more accurate impression of the roads in Missouri.  Just think rollercoaster.  The topography is generally flat but undulating (if that makes sense) so the roads go up and down almost continuously and the gradients are fairly steep.  It maked for a tough ride and probably involved more effort than being in certain areas of the Rocky Mountains, which although are much higher, have more gradual climbs and long periods on the flat.

About 5 miles beyond Sainte Genevieve I realised there was a ferry over the Mississippi. On a trip, ferry crossings are a must.  Backtracked to the town and luckily called in at the tourist office for maps, when I was told the ferry wasn't sailing due to the huge amount of water flowing down the river due to the weeks of exceptionally heavy rainfall, all of which I'd somehow managed to avoid.  Was a bit disappointed but at least a 20 mile backtrack was reduced to 10.

Continued back on original plan and picked up local H from 51 and crossed the Mississippi and into the State of Illinois at Chester, the home to the author of Popeye, who was apparently based on a well known character who lived locally, at the end of the 1800s.

Finished the day by going south on 3 and camping at the Johnson Creek recreation area.

This has been a tough day with lots of steep climbs. Was a bit easier when I got nearer to the Mississippi.

This folks is my half way day, time wise.

Update:  Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Day 43 - Tuesday 14th June 2011

Portland to Washinton State Park     95 miles     DFP 2804

Continued east on KATY and luckily had stopped at a picnic/toilet area with a shelter in Rhineland when a downpour arrived, so managed to stay dry.  A headwind did get up just after but this had little noticeable effect due to the tree shelter on KATY.  Stopped to speak to some State Park employees and learned a Missourri cycling event was commencing at the weekend in Clinton and would cover the whole of the trail over a week.  A similar thing to BAK but almost totally off road.

Decided to leave KATY at Dutzow and head south by road but made a slight de-tour to take in Daniel Boone's grave.  Could hardly miss that when it was only a mile away.

 

Then crossed back over the Missouri River and into Washington for a later lunch before heading south on route 47 and taking in a short section of the old Route 66 in Saint Clair.

Camped in Washington State Park. Had a lovely chat with Jan and Bob Dierberg who are acting as the 'campground hosts' for a month.  They move from park to park over the summer fulfilling the same function.  Then spend the winter in Florida doing voluntary work. 

Since leaving Ottawa on the 10th, it's been more changeable with fairly frequent thunderstorms but very luckily I've never been out in them.  It's also much more overcast, so pleasanter for cycling as it's not so hot.

Found my first tick with it's head embedded in my leg when I'd settled down to eat having made a late evening meal.  Luckily, a very thoughtful person had gifted me a pack of O'tom Tick Twister removers (http://www.otom.com/), which did  the necessary and the little blighter's head was extricated.  It hadn't even waited for me start eating  before it buried its head in the trough.

Updated:  Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Day 42 - Monday 13th June 2011

Columbia to Portland     78 miles     DFP 2709

Up early as I wanted to be in Columbia before the shops opened.  I was in the dry but going by the lightning, thunder and clouds, Columbia was being dumped on.  Cycled the MKT link trail the Columbia and found Walt's Bicycle shop (http://www.waltsbikeshop.com/).  Comprehensive stock and very professional staff who proveded a first rate service.   Decided to take no chances and bought another new tyre.  A Schwalbe Marathon Plus.  It was 54 dollars but I considered that worth it, being one of the best tyres money can buy.  Mark Bendal (manager) kindly fitted the new tyre and gave the bike a quick check over, at no extra cost.  Fantastic service.  Luckly, I was in the shop when another thunderstorm dumped another load of rain but the sun was out before I left.  Also fitted in a quick library visit and lunch before heading back along the link trail to KATY. 

Met a couple (lady's mum from Glasgow, if I remember correctly) who have just set out from St Louis to follow the Lewis and Clark, Corp of Discovery Trail.  A close on 5000 mile bike/car/walking journey which they're splitting into two parts.  That's a fair trip but will be very interesting from many aspects, including historical, geographical and environmental.

Called in at a little pub/diner in Mokane for dinner before camping at Portland by the Missouri River.

Now that the tyre issue is resolved, I'm now really beginning to appreciate just how wonderful an asset the KATY trail is for wildlife and people. Being a Missouri State Park also adds status.

Only added 55 miles to the DFP due to de-tour to Columbia.

Updated: Mount Sterling, Kentucky.

Day 41 - Sunday 12th June 2011

Sedalia to Columbia     74 miles     DFP 2654

Backtracked to Walmart in Sedalia and bought a couple of new inner tubes and on fitting one notice rubber was peeling away from the edge of the new rear tyre I'd got in Scott City the previous Saturday.  As this might be the problem, I fitted my emergency folding tyre and was off.  Things were fine and I'd maybe find a bike shop on the trail even although it was a Sunday. Cycled through Beaman, Clifton City, Pilot Grove and Boonville where I crossed the Missouri River and from now on the trail is never far away from it. 

It was then onto New Franklin and Rocheport, which has a bike shop which was open but unfortunately, no suitable tyre.  That meant I'd need to detour into Columbia in the morning.  Went a little further and camped at the MKT link trail to the city.

Bumped into a young couple, Andrew MacGregor and Stephanie Robertson for the second time today.We'd originally met at Clinton. As is fairly apparent, they both have Scottish ancestors and knowledge of our history.  They are cycling the KATY trail and maintaining a blog at Shoot Film, Ride Steel.

I've only added 60 miles to the DFP due to the backtrack to Sedalia.

Updated: Carbondale, Illinois (library).

Day 40 - Saturday 11th June 2011

Urich to Sedalia     62 miles     DFP 2594

Was up and away before any of the household, so didn't see anyone.  "Thanks very much for allowing the use of your yard, it was appreciated".  Got down state 7 to Clinton before any heavy traffic and located the KATY Trail where I got chatting with Joan and Jim Groff who gave a donation to ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.  Joan is recovering from hip fracture procedure and is just getting back to cycling.  Joan, "Take things easily and don't overdo it.  And to you both, thanks for your contribution".

I now know that cicada (known locally as the locusts) are the cause of the constant noise from the trees and fields.  This not so small insect has a 7 year life cycle and all are synchronised to reproduce during the same year.  Now is that time and the noise is deafening.  The adults climb up anything they find, vibrate their wings (hence the noise), mate, the eggs are laid and all the adults die.  So for 6 years at this time, there's utter silence but on the 7 year there's a bit of a din.

On approaching Sedalia became aware of a rear tyre problem and I'd punctured.  Not a problem, take bags off, quick repair and I'll be back on the road.  Didn't work that way, as I puncture again shortly afterwards.  And again.  Also couldn't find the cause of the problem and there didn't appear to be any thorn/glass in the tyre. Time to camp for the night and I'll look at things afresh in the morning, seems like a plan.

Updated:  Carbondale, Illinois (library)

Day 39 - Friday 10th June 2011

Ottawa to Urich     83 miles     DFP 2532

So there's me, just up and outside the tent having a  yawn, stretch and scratch.  You know, just what all guys do first thing.     GULP - the tree right next to the one I'm under has a rather large branch (limb would be a better word) lying on the grass directly below it and I can't remember seeing it there last night when I arrived.  Had a look and sure enough, it obviously came down during the night.  Glad I hadn't picked that tree.

Quick trip to the library to update blog and check mail, then eastwards on State 68 calling in at the visitor centre for Missouri maps.  This side of Kansas is far more undulating and has many more trees.  More like home.  Also been hearing this very loud buzzing noise from the trees and fields but can't work out what's causing it.  Bought lunch at Louisburg and on leaving Price Choppers a guy asked me about my trip and gave me 10 dollars for ALZHEIMERS SCOTLAND.  Very much appreciated.   Another quick trip to the library.

Crossed over into Missouri shortly after and used State 2 to reach the combined Highway 71/State 7.  What a shock.  The first 70 limit since I started trip and the hard shoulder is very poor with lots of debris and potholes.  It's busy and very fast.  This is a big change from all the previous states.

 

I'm heading for Clinton, which is a change of plan.  All the people I spoke to in BAK recommended I use the KATY trail to St Louis.  It's all off road and uses old railway lines.  Stopped at a Casey's in Urich and a guy offered his garden as a camping spot.  So it was along to Eighth Street where I spent a pleasant few hours chatting to the family and numerous dogs and cats before settling down for the night. 

Updated: Murphysboro, Illinois (library)

Day 38 - Thursday 9th June 2011

Emporia to Ottawa     114 miles     DPF 2491

Up early and decided to back track to the place I might have lost the vest.  So on my way to almost Cottonwood, I past all the BAK riders going in the opposite direction. Obviously, there was a lot of waves, shouts of support and some mention of me going in the wrong direction.  Search was in vain so it was back to Emporia for a bite to eat and use of the library.  Then north on 99 and met Leroy Hershberger, who I'd met several times over the previous days,  coming south and way off the BAK route.  Turned out he'd been invited to take his craft of storytelling to a group of children at the library in Admire.  So it was a final, final farewell and I was back on my way and heading east on 170.  The little town of Reading seemed a little run down but there was obvious construction work ongoing.  Was stopped a few miles later by a chap who gave me a bottle of ice cool water and who mentioned the town had been hit by a tornado a few weeks ago, resulting in 1 loss of life and 3 million dollars worth of damage.

Reached Ottawa, which has some really good cycling/walking facilities and camped in the local Forest Public Park.  Really nice evening, kids at the outdoor pool, baseball diamond in use and lots of families wandering about.  As it started to get dark, there was a lightning storm somewhere just to the south.  Also saw my first 'fire flies'.  Then the wind got up and up and up and up.  Ehhhhhh, think I might need some more lines and pegs.  The panniers also ended up inside the tent to keep things down and I was holding onto the single pole hoping it wouldn't break.  There was no rain, just what must have been at least gale force winds.  Strongest I've ever encountered in a tent.  Several hours later and all was peaceful again.  Got a slight surprise in the morning.

As I backtracked for 42(ish) miles this morning, I've only added 72 miles to the DFP.

Updated: Windsor, Missouri (library)

Day 37 - Wednesday 8th June 2011

McPherson to Emporia     90 miles     DFP 2377

Definitely leaving BAK event today but as it turned out our respective routes were identical for most of the day.  Headed east on Highway 56 before taking the minor road through Hillsboro for the library, then onto Marion.  At Elmdale on Highway 50 the BAK event headed east on a minor road to Cottonwood Falls whereas I continued on to Emporia.  When I left their route I really felt sad but I needed to press on with the coast to coast.  Little did I know I'd see most of them again tomorrow.

On reaching Emporia I noticed my high-vis vest had become detached`from a pannier strap and must be somewhere along today's route.  Just one of those things.  Called in at a house just north of Emporia on State 99 and the lady was happy for me to set up the tent in her garden.  To her, "Thank you very much and the cold water was much appreciated. Take care".

I should mention that since Sunday the temperatures throughout the state of Kansas and probably further afield have been in the high 90s and low 100s.  Trust me when I say, "That's pretty warm when pedalling the fully loaded Dawes".   Didn't know I could swallow so much of fluid.

Updated: Louisburg, Kansas (library)

Day 36 - Tuesday 7th June 2011

Hoisington to McPherson     78 miles     DFP 2287

I had intended breaking away from BAK today but a problem with the wheels, particularly the front one, convinced me to tag along for another day and have Ruth check them at McPherson.  Might be a buckle.  Followed state 4 east through Claflin and Geneseo before heading south through Marquette and minor back roads to McPherson. I'm told it's the Scottish capital of Kansas. Very strong headwinds on the southward stretches.

Wheels were checked and I was informed the tyres hadn't been 'seated' correctly when I changed them on Sunday, hence what I'm now told is 'bobbing'.  Very good description of the effects.  So the 5 dollars to put them right was very worth while.  And here's me thinking I could change tyres.  Ruth has now shown me 'how it should be done'!!!!

Updated: Ottawa, Kansas (library)

Day 35 - Monday 6th June 2011

Ness City to Hoisington     71 miles     DFP 2209

Again, due to the continuing warm reception from everyone I met, decided to continue as part of the BAK event as it travelled east along State 96 before turning north on Highway 183.  At La Crosse I called in at the library and propped my bike against the cycle rack outside.  This rack has just recently been sited there in memory of a couple, whose daughter was by chance in the library having travelled some considerable distance to see and photograph the new rack in-situ and by chance I happen to pass by just at the same time and make use of it.  So I was happy to oblige and pose with bike for a couple of photographs.  There is an alzheimer connection in that the lady's father had a diagnosis.  It was then on to the overnight stop at Hoisington and more bicycle talk with loads of other enthusiasts.

Updated: Hillsboro, Kansas (library)