Day 74 - Friday 15th July 2011

Fredericksburg to Washington DC     67 miles     DFP n/a

I sat chatting over breakfast with Patty and Paul until just after 9 when it was time to head off, especially as I wanted to reach the end of the road today.  We said our farewells and a couple of additional photos were taken.  To Patty and Paul, "Many thanks for making me so welcome and allowing me to share your lovely home.  It was a great pleasure meeting you both and I really appreciated the interest you took in my trip. Please take care and best wishes".

Due to the difficulties following the signage for cycle route 1 yesterday, I decided to simply use Highway 1 north.  As it runs parallel with Interstate 95 I thought it would be pretty quiet.  Initially that was the case and I did stop at a diner for an all day breakfast and pancakes/syrup.  Also stopped at the library in Dumfries as I was making fairly good time.  This was probably a mistake because when I resumed cycling, Friday rush hour had started.  There then followed probably the hairiest part of the whole trip.  Two busy lanes with hardly any hard shoulder and lots of debris.  But then followed safety in the form of the Mount Vernon trail, where motor vehicles are prohibited.

Stopped to reminisce and take in some fuel when I was approached by a young couple, Simon and Katherine who had recognised my Scotland flag.  They're from England, have just moved to Washington and very kindly gave a donation for ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.  To you both, "Many thanks".

The trail is about 15 miles long and is a pleasure.  Then I had the first view of Washington Monument, situated in the centre of the capital and the point I was treating as THE final end point.

Crossed the Potomac River and I was there.  Stopped for a photo in front of Lincoln Memorial then made towards Washington Monument.

Reached it and the trip was over.

Arrived just after 6.30pm having covered 4687 miles since leaving Seattle.  What more can I say other than, "I've had a wonderful time and have absolutely no regrets".

Got to Cathedral Avenue just before it got dark and was warmly welcomed by Nancy and Dante, two old friends.  I've now got some true vacation time to wander the city.

Update: Washington DC

Day 73 - Thursday 14th July 2011

Ashland to Fredericksburg     65 miles     DFP n/a

Set off fairly early and continued north on cycle route 1 which I managed to follow without much difficulty until crossing over Interstate 95.  From there however, I seemed to loose the way.  Not sure if it was poor observational skills on my part or the signage.  Anyway I managed to regain the correct way after visiting General Stonewall Jackson's shrine.  Decided food and fluid were needed, so headed into Fredericksburg where I also called into the library.  Fredericksburg is a lovely town with loads of relatively recent history.  Birth place of George Washington and location of several civil war battles.  The architecture is also worth mentioning.

On leaving town to continue north, I stopped and asked a chap on a Harley-Davidson motor cycle for directions to local shops.  Five minutes later he drew along side and asked if I'd like to stay the night with himself and his wife.  Now bear in mind, I was a total stranger, had not showered in almost a week (the swim in the James River really not counting), was pretty dishevelled and was probably in need of a considerable amount of deodorant but despite this, here was I being warmly invited into their home. As a consequence I had the great, good fortune of meeting another lovely, warm and very hospitable couple, Paul and Patty Fiore, their labrador Kenai and slightly aloof cat.

They very kindly allowed me to shower, eat with them and sleep in a bed.  This on what will probably be the final night of my actual cycle across the USA.

Updated Dumfries, Virginia (library).

Day 72 - Wednesday 13th July 2011

Scotland to Ashland     84 miles     DFP n/a

I should maybe mention that last night I initially intended setting up a bivi by the river but after about 30 seconds when the mosquitoes found me, decided I'd better think again.  There's just something unique about the buzzing noise made by mosquitoes.  It's unnerving. Problem is for tent read sauna.  Should I go for mosquitoes or sauna,  mosquitoes or sauna.  Sauna got my vote but just as I thought, the minute I got inside, the sweat started pouring out.  And that was with the two outer doors wide open.  Not the inners obviously.  Things got a little better sometime after midnight and the next I knew it was five and time for the ferry.  Third time over in 12 hours and at no cost.  Bonus.  A holiday just isn't complete without a short ferry crossing.   

Followed Route 5, which is also cycle route 76, westwards but decided to go right into Richmond for shops and more importantly fluid.  Another gallon of orange juice.  Picked up Cycle route 1 north out of the city and found it reasonably simple to follow the signage.  Reached Ashland and luckily called into the library, second time today.  That saved me a soaking from one of those hour long storms.  Also had a nice chat with a local who mentioned a church about 8 miles north of town where I could camp.  During this part, cycle routes 1 and 76 combine.

So off I went and reach the Fork Episcopalian church in plenty time to set up the tent and cook supper. 

Updated: Fredericksburg, Virginia (library)

Day 71 - Tuesday 12th July 2011

Virginia Beach to Scotland     76 miles     DFP n/a

Up early as I didn't want to worry any early dog walkers.  Sat having breakfast watching 4 osprey fishing about 100 yards away.  Don't think I've ever seen so many osprey than along this coast line of Virginia.  I then retraced yesterday's route through Norfolk/Portsmouth/Suffolk then headed north on Highway 17.  This came to a halt at the James River bridge which doesn't permit cycles.  So had to backtrack a little to pick up road 10 north.  Stopped at the historic St Luke's church for a little fuel intake and was just setting off again when I realised the rear tyre was punctured.  Bummer but it couldn't have happened at a better place as there's handwashing facilities at the church.  Job done and headed north to Surry and a big drink.  Read 1 gallon big drink of orange.  Next was Scotland and the ferry over the James River to historic Jamestown.  At 7pm the display board was reading 92 degrees.  What it was during the day, I've no idea.
Sailed to Jamestown with views back to Scotland.

Right off the ferry there's a picnic area where folks were swimming, so that had to be the overnight stop.   The swim was just great.  My meal was OK also but then the state park officer came and very apologetically and politely emptied me out.  Pity.  Still,  just got to make the most of things and got back on the ferry and returned to Scotland where I'd seen a suitable spot right by the river and at the end of the jetty road.  So I can now say, "I've stayed in two Scotlands".

Updated: Richmond, Virginia (library)

Day 70 - Monday 11th July 2011

Suffolk to Virginia Beach      65 miles     DFP 4010

On the road by 6 o'clock heading south on 627 before turning east on 337.  Things started to get busier as I neared Chesapeake and Portsmouth. Portsmouth and Norfork are divided by the Elizabeth River which has no bridge suitable for pedestrians/cyclists, so the crossing must be made by a quaint little ferry.

The ticket guy gave me the 'senior' return fare without even asking.  Ehhhhhhh, while that starts at 60 and I'm 59, I know it's close but!!!!!!!  Get use to it Andrew.  Getting through Norfolk on 166 was easy but once on Highway 13 which goes to the Cheaspeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel things got a bit hairy, so I diverted onto  166 and then east again on Highway 60.  This goes by First Landing State Park which was nice.  Then 'it' was there, crossing the bridge over the Lynnhaven Bay inlet, I saw the Atlantic for the first time.  Just a few yards away.

Didn't want to rush things, so continued on Highway 60 until I picked up Ocean Front Avenue and then the 'Boardwalk' at Virginia Beach proper.  Had to savour the moment a little, so had a couple of banana pieces and a Danish pastry (who says I don't know how to celebrate) before wandering slowly down the 'Boardwalk'.  Then at the end, hauled the bike over the soft sand and with the help of a guy from the Netherlands, who now stays locally, got the necessary photographs.

Miles for today 46 and with the ODO sitting at 5097 the 'crossing' was over.  It was 1.30PM and there's nothing between here and the Scottish coast somewhere roughly to the north/east.
JOB DONE.  Dream/ambition realised.  What more can I say.  Well maybe, YIPEEEEEEEEEE. I estimated 4000 miles for the trip and it turned out at 4010.  Now just the small matter of cycling the 250 odd miles up to Washington DC. 

Updating this in Virginia Beach library but will head back to the beach now and wander up and down.  Might even go for a swim.  Who knows.  Will finish today's entry in a couple of days or so.

Didn't bother with a swim, just wandered then headed back up Highway 60 to Lynnhaven, found a nice bit of Chesapeake Bay Beaches and set up a bivi.

Watched a nice sunset and then I had the place to myself.

Updated: Virginia Beach, Virginia. (Then Portsmouth library on 12th)

Day 69 - Sunday 10th July 2011

Chester to Suffolk     89 miles     DFP 3964

Said my farewells to Iain, Erin, Mackenzie, Lennox and Keeli the dog and I was back on the road by 10.

Took some back roads until I reached 10, then headed south.  I was joined by another cyclist, Bob Mohan, out for a day ride from home.  He took me out to City Point before returning to 10.  Shortly after, he headed off over the James River, while I continued on 10.  At Surry (correct spelling) I took a little detour to Scotland Ferry which was originally going to be the 'official' end point of the crossing of the USA.  Took a couple of photos and recorded the mileage as 51 miles for the day and an ODO reading of 5015.

Whilst Scotland Ferry is tidal and would have done had I been short of time, I'm away ahead of schedule and as such decided to now end the crossing at Virginia Beach.  So it was back to Surry and south again on 10.  Just after Smithfield I picked up Highway 258, then Highway 17 which took me into Suffolk and over Nansemond River where I got a photo of 2 ospreys.  Cut south on 627 where I found a camping spot for the night.  Want an early start in the morning.

Updated: Virginia Beach, Virginia (library)

Day 66 - Day 68 Thursday 7th to Saturday 9th July 2011

No cycling.  Staying with friends in Chester, Virginia.  Will expand later.

Day 65 - Wednesday 6th July 2011

Keysville to Chester     91 miles     DFP 3875

On setting out found there's a prohibition against cyclists using H360 so backtracked a little to 40 and passed through Lunenbuerg and Kentbridge before reaching Blackstone where I joined H460 for a while before picking up the back roads of 153, 621, 602, 621 and 655 heading for my destination at Chester where I will be staying for a few days with friends Iain and Erin and their children Mackenzie and Lennox. How's that for good Scottish names and here in the heart of Virginia.  On reaching Pocahontas State Park the sky opened again with the usual downpours.  As a result the final 10 miles took over 2 hours.  Should have take 45 minutes.  So was glad to get here and remove rather wet and very unpleasant clothing.

Updated: Chester, Virginia.

Day 64 - Tuesday 5th July 2011

Sandy Hill to Keysville     73 miles     DFP 3784

Said farewell to Kendell who offered up a prayer and continued east on 40.  Was relatively quite up until Gretna then I had the road almost to myself.  Sort of hilly to start with but then flattened out. Stopped at Brockneal for lunch at the local 'Subway'.   When placing my order with Lani Killman, she gave a 10 dollar donation to ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.  To Lani, "Thank you for your generosity".  Whilst eating lunch I was approached by Jennifer Maxfield, a reporter for the local Union Star newspaper  
www.theunionstar.com  
who'd been informed I was passing through and asked if she could conduct an interview.  Sure.  Turns out two of Jennifer's grandparents had been affected by dementia, so she was very well aware of the need to highlight the needs of those concerned and their carers.  The article goes out on Wednesday 13th July and can be accessed on-line.

Continued east on 40 passing through Phenix and Charlotte Court House before stopping for the night at Keysville intending to us H360 in the morning.

Whilst still probably in the low 90s I think the humidity has been less oppressive because I've not found it so exhausting.  Either that or I'm just getting use to it.

Updated: Chester, Virginia.

Day 63 - Monday 4th July 20211

Dugspur to Sandy Level     76 miles      DFP 3711

Sort of day of changing decisions, all of which worked out well.  But that's only due to luck and not calculated forethought. My plan was to follow H221 to just east of Copper Hill where I'd pick up the Blue Ridge Parkway, then come off at road 24 and maybe stop at Stewartsville.  However, due to the switchback nature of 221, when I reached Floyd, decided just to go up to the Parkway from there.  Turned out there was practically no ascent involved.  Headed north on the Parkway

and called into Smart View picnic/viewpoint area.

It was here I rechecked the map and realised there was no places to pick up provisions/water until Stewartsville, some 40 odd miles away and in this heat, not a good idea.  So made the second change of the day by coming off the Parkway on 640 to Rocky Mount.  This turn out to be a major descent and was glad I wasn't going the other way.  On the way down, stopped by a creek for a bite to eat and drink, during which time dark clouds and thunder passed overhead but I stayed dry.  Two miles further and the roads were soaking.  Reached Rocky Mount and was in Walmark when the skies opened.  Fair storm with the usual thunder and lightning.  So wandered round with an empty trolley for a couple of hours.  Had I stuck to my original route, would have been up on the Parkway at the time.

On it easing a bit, headed east of  40 where I came upon Sandy Level and its Baptist Church.  Spoke to Pastor Kendell Smith who explained he maintained an open door policy in respect of the church and church hall with its kitchen and toilet, for travellers.  In addition, I was invited into his house to meet his wife Francine, daughter Sarah and son-in-law Tommy, offered use of their shower, provided with a folding bed and sat down to a meal.  Finally I was given a very generous donation for ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND.  Just super hospitality and thoughts for others.  To Kendell, Francine, Sarah and Tommy, "Thank you so very, very much.  It was really appreciated. Please take care".

Updated:  Chester, Virginia.

Day 62 - Sunday 3rd July 2011

Troutdale to Dugspur     66 miles     DFP 3635

Was a nice sun rise

before I had breakfast with Norm and Kip at the local diner when we exchanged experiences, theirs being far more comprehensive than my own. I'm just a novice compared to them. Think it's fair to say they've walked extensively throughout the world. They are very thankful for being blessed with good health but at the same time they do everything they can to maintain well being.  And it's obviously working.  So to Kip and Norm, "Thank you".  Also to Roman and Max for looking after the hostel which is a wonderful facility in this small and remote community.

Headed off south on 16 to pick up H58 at Volney, which in turn heads east to Independence.  Don't know if it wasn't so humid or if I was uplifted having listened to Kip and Norm but things seemed easier this morning and I seemed to have more energy. Continued on through Galax and Hillsville, by which time the ups and downs were getting more challenging.  At about 60 miles I was about done.  Was then informed a severe storm was due and I'd better find some place safe. This came in the form of the large picnic shelter at the volunteer Fire and Rescue Service building in Dugspur.

As it turned out the storm passed away to the south and I had a perfect evening.  Nothing lost as I was ready to stop anyway and probably couldn't have gone much further.

Updated: Chester, Virginia.

Day 61 - Saturday 2nd July 2011

Elk Gardens to Troutdale     60 miles     DFP 3569

Said farewell to both Laura and Chuck

before following the very up and down road 80 to Meadowview.  I didn't set off until after 9, by which time the sun was up and it was hot and very humid.  Totally energy sapping.  At Meadowview I had a choice of routes.  Turn and head along Highway 11 which was probably fairly flat to reach Wytheville or continue as planned and take some minors roads going uphill to Damascus.  With how I felt energy wise and the heat/humidity decided on the former.  Got on the bike to hear someone say, "what a woose", so headed for Damascus.  Turned out a good gut change.  Was a bit of a climb to Damascus but on arrival found it full of family cyclists.  Apparently several years ago it was a dying town but a business lady decided to set up a cycle hire company which ferried cyclist to the top of a hill and it was a ride back down. It's known as the Creeper Trail. There's now 15 other companies doing the same thing.  The town also lies almost on the world renowned  Appalachian walking trail which stretches from Georgia in the south to Maine in the north.  Some 2 to 3 thousand miles.

After a large, cool drink and banana piece (sandwich to those reading this outwith Scotland) I continued on Highway 58 and whilst initially it was flat, the climbing eventually arrived.  It went on a bit but only as I'd expected.  It was in fact a surprise when things did flatten out and a smile appeared.  Picked up 603 at Konnarock and found this also to be a relatively flat road despite being near the summit of Mount Rogers, which I think is the highest peak in Virginia.  Came upon Laurel Valley Community Church which is really pretty.

Troutdale was my planned stop and ended up with 2 'luckies'.  Arrived at the shop just as it was closing and the lady mentioned the Baptist Church free hostel in the town.  Headed up and initially met Roman Wall (walking name Lone Wolf) and his big, friendly dog Max.  Next to appear were Norm and Kip Smith (walking names the Pink Panthers).  Their story is worthy of mention.  Last year, Kip was asked what she wanted for her birthday and suggested to Norm that they re-walk the Appalachian Trail (known as the AT).  Just a few thousand miles.  Quite a feat in itself but if I mention it was Kip's 80th (sorry for mentioning it Kip) and they carry all their own stuff.  Tent, sleeping bag, stove, pans, water purification etc, etc.  Just amazing.

Updated: Brookneal, Virginia (library)

Day 60 - Friday 1st July 2011

Elkhorn City to Elk Gardens     54 miles     DFP 3509

Sat eating breakfast with a beaver, ducks and geese this morning.  Nice.

Continued on road 80 and almost immediately was climbing.  The gradients increased after about 8 miles when I left Kentucky and entered Virginia, the last State of the trip.

Then it happened.  First time so far but it had to come.  On the approach to Haysi, the climb was a toughie zig zag and with the weight, heat (over 90), humidity and probably lack of a substantial breakfast I had to stop and walk for a couple of 100 yards.  I was just beat.

Stopped at the Pizza Factory in Haysi for lunch and had a fish meal followed by three big pancake and loads of syrup.  The latter courtesy of the establishment so a "Big thank you". Needed the sugar rush.  After Haysi the road was just perfect. A gradual climb following a creek which was flowing in the opposite direction.  Trees on all sides.  As mentioned earlier the humidity was high. My watch tells me - the face mists up.  On reaching town of Council I looked down on the following scene.  I'll give you one guess as to what I did.

After the town of Council I had the second tough climb but was able for this one.

Had been told of a camping facility in Elk Gardens so headed for there.  It's the United Methodist church and hall and the doors are left unlocked at all times for residents and cyclists.  Just great.  Met Laura (as can be seen from her blog        http://www.lauraleeson.wordpress.com/          she is a very gutsy young girl who is cycling across the USA heading for Glacier Park, Montana) and Chuck (a 62 year old who is heading for California).  They met and are chumming each other for a bit.  To you both, "Take care and enjoy".

Updated: Hayters Gap, Virginia (library)

Day 59 - Thursday 30th June 2011

Salyersville to Elkhorn City     75 miles     DFP 3455

Up early, hair done, make-up on, decided on my best side. Ehhhhh, no!  Ritter (Ritt) Mortimer, who along with his parents owns/operates 'Your News Today' (YourNewsToday@Yahoo.com) arrived just before 9 and we had a chat before the formal interview took place.  Covered the trip so far; what's to come; the reasons behind the journey and what I hoped to achieve.  Think I got most of what I wanted to say.  Apparently 'Your News Today' goes out to several counties in eastern Kentucky through the cable TV network.  They aren't set up on the internet yet, so that's not an option.   Ritt treated me to breakfast.  So to Ritt, "Thanks for taking an interest and you've done a lot to helped me spread the dementia awareness message".

On leaving Salyersville I headed east on 114 as 460 takes a more northerly route.  The road was very similar to yesterday.  Stopped at Prestonsburg for supplies and the library, then everything changed.  I rejoined 460 but it also serves as 23 and 80.  It's effectively an interstate/freeway. Dual carriageway, busy and fast. It does have a wide hard shoulder so was OK and the wooded hillsides are a visual diversion. At Pikeville, 460 breaks away and heads east which was my way.

At Belcher, I turned onto 80 as I wanted to camp at Elkhorn City and found a lovely spot by the river.

So today was relatively easy with no ascents of any note.  Tomorrow will be different I think.

Updated: Haysi, Virginia (library).