Day 26 - Saturday 28th May 2011

Sweetwater Station Junction to Rawlins     88 miles    DFP 1480

Looked in the mirror at the rest area and realised I must have lost at least a stone!!!  On the plus side my chronic lower back pain is gone. Did the 19 miles to Jeffrey City where I had breakfast in the Split Rock Cafe/Bar run by Vikky.  Chris, who had also reached Sweetwater Station Junction and camped at a Mormon centre, was just leaving.  Had the usual scrambled eggs, hashbrowns, sausage, toast etc but still feeling a little peckish and remembering my mirror image, I asked about the 'mid stack' of pancakes.  They're described as HUGE. Vikky gave me a knowing smile and told me nobody had managed to finish a 'mid stack'.  Well they have now!!!!!    This bar/cafe can truely be described as the centre of this little community.  A former uranium mining town of 5000, there's now just over 150, including the surrounding ranches.  It's where locals come for news; to eat; the US Mail service drops here; they run a web newspage and operate a local weather forecast system.  Sadly, other than myself and Chris, only two other motorists stopped and they only bought 1 dollar coffees to take away. 

Back on the road and crossed the Continental Divide again, although this time it's hardly noticeable.

Had a 3pm lunch at the Anna Lope cafe.  The Continental Divide actually separates way to the west of here and I initially had difficulty working out how this happens.  But now having seen it, it's like being in a large pudding plate with hills all round.  Crossed the Divide again shortly after but didn't stop for a photo as it was now pouring and I was soaked.  Got to Rawlins and had to use a motel.  The first so far.  The 'Jade Lodge' motel was not ideal but any port in a storm.  Still it gave me a bath. 

Updated: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library)

Day 25 - Friday 27th May 2011

Dubios to Sweetwater Station Junction     116 miles     DFP 1392

Had breakfast at the 'Cowboy' restaurant served by a Campbell who also had some Irish in him.  He did know the Campbells were from Argyle. The hills here are a deep orange sandstone.

Headed east on 287 with a fantastic tail wind and caught up with Chris, a mid 30 year old who was cycling between Eugene on the Pacific and Denver.  Was between jobs, having finished working for the New York Mayor's office and commencing a new contract with a Russian bank in Russia.  Managed first 40 miles in 3 hours but I then had my first experience of  'bonk'.  Was half way up a long gradual incline and all of a sudden there was just no fuel in the tank and I had to stop and eat.  Chris pressed on. As I approached Lander, spoke to a guy who was cycling from Argentina to Alaska, having set out 18 months ago.  And was he carrying a load!  It was Subway time at Lander, then the library but shouldn't have bothered as it shut 20 minutes after I arrived.  Bummer, or so I thought initially. Saw there was possible camping at Sweetwater Station Junction, so set off for a 30 mile evening ride.  Past site of Wyoming's first oil well. Wind still at my tail and then reached today's one and only serious climb from Beaver Creek to Beaver Rim.  A few zig-zags meant I was repeatedly getting a head or cross wind.  Not what you want after 100 miles on a loaded bike.  Still the view from Beaver Rim back to the Wind River valley which I'd cycled through all day was worth it.  Reached the rest area at Sweetwater Station Junction and managed to camp just before dark. 

Just as well I didn't spend time at the library.

Updated:  Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 24 - Thursday 26th May 2011

Signal Mountain (Grand Teton NP) to Dubios     65 miles     DFP 1276

Sleet was falling when I got up but it soon cleared.  Had breakfast in the lodge restaurant which also has superb views over Jackson Lake to the main mountain ridge. 

Also used the guest computer to update blog.  Set off at noon by returning to Jackson Junction then east to Moran Junction and Highway 287. After about 10 miles came to roadworks where they were operating a convoy system and I wasn't permitted to cycle and had to put the bike on the lead vehicle.  Rules is rules!  Once back on the road, it was upwards and upwards and upwards.   The highest point is Togwottee Pass at 9658' on the Continental Divide, the highest point on the trip so far. Now, as any good hillwalker knows, you never think you're at a summit until you're actually there.  Did I forget this golden rule? Yip, several times. Sadly the summit pass doesn't actually have a marker, or not one I could see above the 15' of banked up snow by the roadside but took the photos anyway.

The sun was out and the view pretty spectacular.  Was having a bite to eat when I realised there had been a significant drop in temperature since my arrival, despite the sun.  Something was up.  Decided to loose height quickly, just before the wind got up. Like 'storm force'. On the way down I had to stop to take some photos of what I can only describe as a more rugged Cuillin Ridge.  Then the snow started to catch me up and when I looked round the Pass was not visible.  I would guess it was blizzard like up there and I was now really glad of the convoy lift which saved me half an hour.  Phew!!!!   Also had to take a photo of my first moose sighting by the roadside. 

Before reaching Dubios the rock structure changed from ignious to layered sandstone.  Camped in the town's public park.

Updated: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 23 - Wednesday 25th May 2011

Madison (Yellowstone NP) to Signal Mountain (Grand Teton NP)      87 miles     DFP 1211

Would have liked to stay longer but while today's forecast was OK, Thursday's was back to sleat/snow, so I had to move on.  Said goodbye to Loinel (who was cycling back to West Yellowstone and the first of numerous buses to Vancouver) and headed south on Highway 287 to climb over the Continental Divide twice (8262' and 8391') at Craig's Pass.

At Grant's Village the clouds disappeared and the sun came out as I continued south on 287, leaving Yellowstone by the south entrance.  287 then continues as the John D Rockerfeller Jnr Memorial Parkway and I entered Grand Teton National Park.

Jackson Lake is reached and I have to be honest, words now fail me.  To the west side of the lake is the Grand Teton main mountain ridge.  It is unbelievably beautiful.  I can only thank Mr John D Rockerfeller Jnr for purchasing and donating 30 odd thousand acres of this mountain terrain to the people of the United States.  This was added to by others.  Honestly, words fail me. Just stunning.

By the time I reached Jackson Junction I was starving so on asking about restaurants, I'm directed to the Jackson Lake Lodge (http://www.gtlc.com/).  Now this can only be described as upmarket.  Picture me: I reek, having not washed in days; my white ALZHEIMER SCOTLAND 'T' shirt is all sweat stained; and my hair is all over the place.  Still, nothing ventured, as they say, so parked the bike at the front door (no need to lock it here - trust me) and went 'where no (sweaty) man has gone before', the reception desk.  "Certainly sir, can we recommended  the Pioneer Grill".  So far so good.  On the way up to the restaurant carrying my bag with its Saltire flying, was approached by a lady who previously stayed at Murrayfield, Edinburgh when her husband worked in Ferranti.  They now stay in Miami but are on vacation at the lodge.  The special of spaghetti and meatballs with loads of carbs was required.  Spoke to a couple with Scottish ancestor connections and who both have experience of looking after relatives who had dementia.  Funny how despite my appearance, folks were really interested in the trip and willing to talk to me.  And to Georgi (my server) and his wife, who I both spoke to for a bit,  if your dream after graduation is San Diego, "Go for it".   I should add that the whole of the west wall of the lodge is glass, so the views over to the mountains are just superb.  As is no surprise, the bike was still outside and I headed down to Signal Mountain Resort (http://www.signalmountainlodge.com/) where I got the hiker/biker rate at 5 dollars.

Update: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library)

Day 22 - Tuesday 24th May 2011

Madison to Madison (Yellowstone National Park)    29miles     DFP 1124

I'd intended to do the circular trip round what they call the northern loop today, which would have been about 100 miles and manageable with an early start and on an unloaded bike.  Sadly there was snow/sleet falling when I awoke, so just had to lie there.  Improved by lunch time, so headed north passing Gibbon Falls

to the Norris Basin geyser area.  Again, I was really impressed with these lesser known geysers.  The fact that simple living organisms can survive and thrive in these extreme temperatures and acidity levels is just amazing.  The snow/sleet returned just as I was about to return, so was soaked through by the time I reached the tent.

As it was tourist stuff today, nothing added to DFP.

Updated: Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 21 - Monday 23rd May 2011

West Yellowstone to Madison (Yellowstone National Park)     55 miles     DFP     1124

Called at tourist office in West Yellowstone and spoke to a Park Officer who did his degree in Edinburgh University.  Stayed in the Canongate and Newington for 4 years.  Loved it apparently.  Sadly he told me the camp site (Grant Village) I'd planned to stop at wasn't yet open and I'd need to use Madison which was only 14 miles away.  Turned out OK though.  Outside the building I met Lionel, a young lad from Paris who had left the east side of Canada last year, cycled down through the States, across the bottom and was now working his way up to Vancouver, before doing about 1000 miles to Montreal.  He was using other forms of transport at times but still a major undertaking.  He was a former 'busker' in Liverpool, who now manages a local band/group in Paris. We half chummed each other along to Madison passing into Yellowstone National Park

and the state of Wyoming.

Having arrived on bikes at the camp site we got the 7 dollar hiker/biker rate.  In the afternoon I did the 16 mile trip to see Old Faithful, being the biggest tourist draw but must admit was far more impressed by all the other geysers at three other sites (Fountain Paint Pot, Midway Geyser Basin and Biscuit Basin) I visited on the way back. The colours, smells and information boards made them all very interesting.  Treated to bison walking along the road on the way back. 

Did the camp fire thing in the evening.

Have only added 14 miles to DFP due to most of today's mileage being touristy stuff.

Updated:  Cheyenne, Wyoming (library).

Day 20 - Sunday 22nd May 2011

Cameron to West Yellowstone     59 miles     DFP 1110

Freezing start to the day with a stiff headwind.  Called in a West Fork RV park and ate 2 lovely, huge cinnamon rolls accompanied by 3 coffees with sugar. Very pleasant speaking to Chuck and Barb (a Gordon who has visited Scotland with Chuck).  Really needed the carbs and sugar, so wasn't embarrased having their last two pastries.  Eventually did reach and call in at the Driftwaters RV Resort, which I'd never have reached the previous day, as it's so far south. Continued south through Madison Canyon Earthquake area and the headwind eased as I turned east.  Stopped at Earthquake Lake, formed in the 1950s when an earthquake brought down a chunk of the hillside and blocked the Madison River.

Also saw my first sitting bald eagle.

It was then on by Hebden Lake and dam before turning south to West Yellowstone.   Made the mistake of having tea at a McDonald's.

Updated: Signal Mountain Resort (Grand Teton National Park)

Day 19 - Saturday 21st May 2011

Dillon to Cameron     90 miles     DFP 1051

Set off by 6am heading north on 41.  Very much in Lewis and Clark's Corp of Discovery route just now and stopped to have a look at Beaverhead Rock a well known landmark.  Parked up at Twin Bridges for breakfast served by Krista with the lovely smile. 

Also called in to look at the cyclist's hut.  Change of direction after beakfast, in that I'm now heading southeast on 287.  Great flat roads so far today with mountain views on either side.  The twin towns of Nevada City and Virginia City came as a surprise. 

First started as a private undertaking and now in the control of Montana state, these two towns are almost exclusively old wooden structures of the 1800 and early 1900s and collected from all over the state and possibly further afield. Almost like looking in at a western move set.  Immediately after Virginia City was the first and only climb of the day.  Maps don't give the Pass a name but the view eastwards from the top is over the Madison Valley to the rugged Madison Mountains, which were unfortunately shrouded in dark clouds. Bit like home.  There's a huge drop into the Madison Valley and then the roads heads for Ennis where I bought some provisions and sat in the local park for tea. While there, the skies cleared along the whole of the valley with just the Madison tops covered in cotton wool clouds. The evening cycle south on 287 was just a dream with the rugged Madison Mountains to the left and the Madison River to the right.  Had been told about the Driftwaters RV resort being at Cameron but it's much further south, so I took the chance and camped by the side of the Madison River at a picnic/camping/fishing site.  Decided to have my little bottle of wine (courtesy of BA) as

I'd travelled over the 1000 miles from the Pacific and the views to the Madison's in the evening light just made it appropriate.  Whilst sitting there I saw a mink and skunk, hunting on the opposite bank and a bald eagle soaring overhead.  What a super day.

Updated: Signal Mountain Resort (Grand Teton National Park).

Day 18 - Friday 20th May 2011

Jackson to Dillon     58 miles     DFP 961

Jackson, which sits at about 6,200 feet, is a very small town with one main, tarred street of maybe 200 yards and a few side streets which have gravel surfaces.  There's a small school, post office, shop, hotel/restaurant and some businesses.  Despite its size, Jackson provided me with 2 first experiences.  At 6am this morning there was a 'cattle drive' through the town's main street.  Maybe 2 to 3 hundred cattle moving at a trot and being driven by cowboys and a cowgirl, all on horseback, with appropriate hats, leather overtrousers and some with lasso es.  This is not a tourist thing but an almost daily event.  Didn't manage a photo but shortly after did get one of the cowboys/girl when they were having breakfast. 

The second new experience was an hour in the hot springs pool.  What a worthwhile 6 dollars. Every day should start this way.

Said bye to the three young lads and to Oliver, "Thank you for your kind offer".  Also had breakfast and a long chat with the waitress who move to the US from Holland as a child.  Femke, "Thank you for taking an interest in my trip and providing me with loads of local information".  Thanks also to all the other nice folks at the Hot Springs Hotel/Restaurant.

Started out at noon, heading south on road 278 crossing Big Hole Pass (7,400') where there's a nice view point looking back over Big Hole and the Bitterroot mountains. Badger Pass (6760') was next, before the drop down to Dillon where I called in at the library.  Headed up road 41 and camped in a State Transportation area with views over to the Pioneer Mountains.  Came across my first cactus here and almost stuck the tent on top of one!

Updated: Twin Bridges, Montana (library).

Day 17 - Thursday 19th May 2011

Darby to Jackson     73 miles     DFP 903

Had to chew gum after breakfast this morning as the toothpaste was solid.  Also wondered about a metallic, tapping noise, until I saw a small woodpecker working its way round the camp site metal signs, doing what woodpeckers do and to very good effect in this case.  Day started off pretty flat although after Sula the serious gradient started but I managed to reach Lost Trail Pass (7014') without walking. Just one stop for a Snicker's bar and drink from a burn.   The visitor centre here, which is actually just inside Idaho, was unfortunately still closed for the winter season.  I then went back into Montana and took road 43 the two miles to Chief Joseph Pass (7264') which is on the Continental Divide.  Very sadly, there is no actual sign, so I just had to make do with some photos of the bike in the snow. 

A nice long descent eastwards down 43, followed by a few undulation took me to the visitor centre at the Big Hole National Battlefield site.  Only had time to watch the DVD explaining events leading up to the conflict and eventual battle between local Indian tribes and the US cavalry.  Found this programme more balanced than previous ones I've viewed.  Sadly, couldn't stay long and it was on to Wisdom against a pretty strong headwind, before I picked up the 278, with a tailwind to Jackson.  Called in at the Hotsprings Hotel/Restaurant where I met Joe, Oliver and Scott, three young lads who have just graduated within the last couple of years and are also cycling across the country from Pacific to Atlantic.

Luckily, they'd arranged to camp within the grounds of a local church and felt it would be OK for me to do likewise. 

Update: Dillon, Montana (library).

Day 16 - Wednesday 18th May 2011

Missoula to Darby     74 miles     DFP 830

Over breakfast coffee, John asked if I'd maybe visit Willard School and speak to some students whom he takes trail riding and teaches cycle mechanics. I jumped at the chance.   The students got to see the bike set up with all the gear and we chatted about my trip and the opportunities biking provides.  So to Ben, Chad, Jake and Kyle, thanks for letting me be part of the class for an hour.  And be your interest BMX, trail, or touring, just go for it.  You couldn't have a better mentor than John.  Also, to John, Emily, Jef and Molly, "Thanks for being so openly warm and hospitable.  I wish you all well".  I should also thank the puncture I had yesterday, because had that not happened, I'd have missed so much and would be without a new spare, folding tyre.

Called in at a bank on the way out of town to resupply the wallet and then retraced my route to Lolo where I picked up the bike trail beside Highway 93 to Hamilton where I bought a couple of submarines for the next few days and called in at the local library.   I was following the Bitterroot River with the Bitterroot Mountains to the east.

Continued south on 93 to Hannon Memorial camping site where the tent went up beside the East Fork river.

I was told today is my last flat day and that appears correct.  93 follows the Bitterroot River and to the west (my right hand side) is the Bitterroot mountains, which are still snow topped and beautiful.  On the road I saw my fist wild turkeys.

Updated: Dillon, Montana (library).

Day 15 - Tuesday 17th May 2011

Missoula to Missoula     38 miles    DFP 756 (see below)

Up early as I wanted to wander round Missoula.  It was below freezing, so had to visit Wal Mart for a pair of gloves.  Called in at the Adventure Cycling Association (www.adventurecycling.org/sg)  which is based in the city.  Very warm reception from two ladies who plied me with cookies and took my photo and pinned it to the wall along with  hundreds of other cyclists who had visited the office. 

On hearing of the reasons for my trip Greg Spile asked me to return in the afternoon for a more formal photo thing and to give a little written resume.  He's compiling a database of more notable bike trips both in the US and world wild and apparently my reasons fitted the criteria. 

After being plied with more cookies and ice cream, I left Missoula along Highway 93 for Lolo.  About 8 miles out the bike had its first ever puncture.  Bit disappointing on a brand new Schwalbe 'Marathon' with only 1700 miles done.  This mishap however turned out to have a very positive outcome.  On doing the repair, found two other cuts (probably glass) which meant a return to Missoula for a replacement.  Got back too late for the shops but started going round them to note opening times.  Was fortunate enough to meet John Thomas who is a mechanic at the Bicycle Hangar (http://www.bicycle-hangar.com/).  About half an hour later, past him again walking his dog and he invited me to stay overnight in his camper van.  Met Emily (John's wife), Jef (John's brother) and Molly (Jef's g/f).  Also had shower (first in a few days) and shared their dinner.  My contribution was some beer from the local store.  I also managed to get a new tyre.  So all in all a worthwhile puncture and there's an addition positive aspect to come in the morning.

1) Despite having covered 38 miles today I haven't added to my DFP as I didn't actually make any progress.

2) Little clarification of my toileting issue yesterday.  I didn't end up bearing all by the side of the road but did come close.  I actually managed to find a medium sized shrub/bush about 50 yards from the road.  It was my half walk/half trot to the bush which  probably made my predicament plainly obvious.

Updated: Missoula, Montana (Library).

Day 14 - Monday 16th May 2011

Eddy to Missoula     92 miles     DFP  756

Woke to mist and low cloud, so was right at home.  No wind this morning, so the miles to Plains was easy.  Started blowing into my face about 9 o'clock.  It obviously had a long lie.  Must be the mountain configuration but after junction with 135 found the wind to be on my back and I was cruising along about 16 mph beside the Flathead River ('Flathead' being the name given to the local Indian tribe by Lewis and Clark).  On approaching Dixon (wrong spelling, so no photo), got my first sighting of the Rocky Mountains.  Stopped at a diner in Ravalli and had a Bison burger.  I drew the line at 'BABY Bison Burger'!!!!  I also have a rule never to take ice with coke etc because it can upset my stomach.  Don't know if it's the chill or the water.  Anyway, forgot to mention to the waitress and the glass arrived with ice. Nothing added to the refill.  An hour down the road and it was "Uh-ah, I've got a problem".  And there's not a lot of options on Route 200, which joined with Highway 93 at Ravalli.  So there's only one choice. Find a suitable bush and there's not many of these either, believe me.  "So to the good folks of Montana and in particular the motorists who were passing at the time, please accept my apologies".  Definitely no more ice. 

These last few days cycling have been strange, as the roads following the wide river valleys have very gentle gradients with virtually no ups or downs.  Add the superb gearing on the Dawes Ultra and I regularly thought I was loosing height.  It's the rivers flowing in the opposite direction that remind me I'm actually going up.  Sadly all the height gained over the last few days was lost during a half hour descent at the end of the day into Missoula.

Updated: Missoula (Library).

Day 13 - Sunday 15th May 2011

Idaho/Montana border to Eddy     67 miles     DFP 664

Within 2 miles of setting off this morning, I'd left Idaho and entered Montana. 

Just 24 hours in Idaho, so that's 2 states down with 8 still to go.  Also gone from Pacific Time to Mountain Time.  Meant losing one hour but couldn't decide whether it should be cycling time, sleeping time or eating time, so settled on 20 minutes from each.  The Idaho sign I noticed was riddled by small bullet holes but the Montana one had far fewer, so didn't know if I should read anything into that.  "I'm sure I've got a Montana flag and kevlar jacket in one of my panniers".  Called in at Trout Creek for lunch and the waitress asked what I thought of the constant wind.  Told her it wasn't a problem, just I was going the wrong way.  It has been a bit breezy since I reached Waterville on Wednesday.  Apparently it rarely comes from the east here.  Just my luck. It was getting a bit tiresome.  Stopped at Thompson Falls and was reading a historical notice about  the English explorer, David Thompson when the wind suddenly changed and started blowing from the west.  Took the chance and went with it.  Must have been about gale force as I got up to 29.4mph.  Felt a few drops of rain and on looking back, the sky was almost black.  Time to camp, which I managed just in time.  No wonder they have storm drains over here.

Update: Arlee, Montana (library).

Day 12 - Saturday 14th May 2011

Newport to Idaho/Montana border     67 miles     DFP 597

Said my farewells to Mindee, Brett and Traipsie.  Jacob was still in bed. 

Within 10 minutes I'd left Washington State and entered Idaho. 

Stopped at the town of Priest River where young children were cycling round a circuit on a closed street, raising money for 'Biking for Babies'.  Last year they raised enough money to purchase a new monitor for an ultra-sound unit at the local clinic. I received a ribbon for doing 1 circuit (most of the youngsters had dozens) and a chocolate chip cookie.  Not sure I deserved that but to the folks at Priest River, "Thank you for letting me take a small part in your event and I hope you had a successful day". Continued along Highway 2 beside Lake Pend Orielle to Sandpoint.  This is where I left Highway 2 and joined State 200 continuing along Lake Pend Orielle.  Camped for the night by the side of the river which might be called Cabinet (will check later) just short of the Idaho/Montana border.  Perfect day ended with me watching a beaver slowly swim up the river bank right next to me, at the same time browsing on some new shoots.

Day 11 - Friday 13th May 2011

Spokane to Newport     56.5 miles     MFP 530

In the morning there was heavy frost on the tent and grass, maybe explaining my appendage.  Started out on the Centenial Bicycle trail but as I couldn't be certain where it ended, reverted to my original plan to follow Highway 2 north.  Had to call in at a Wal Mart as one of the arms on my Oakley sunglasses had broken.  So much for quality.  Bought a pair of Foster Grant's at 15 dollars and they're probably more up to the job.  Found the wind had changed during the night and was now in my face from the north, probably explaining the heavy frost.  On passing Diamond Lake saw my first bald eagle flying overhead. Decided to spend the night at Newport and as I was looking about, a young man stopped me, asked if I was camping and offered me the use of their back lawn to erect the tent. Brett introduced me to his wife Mindee, their little boy Jacob and Traipsie the dog.  It addition to the use of their lawn, they insisted I made their home, my own.  So a shower was obviously in order, as I didn't want to be totally antisocial, laundered my clothes and was invited to eat with them.  What a super, super young family.  So to Mindee, Brett, Jacob and not excluding Traipsie, "May I wish you all the success for the future and in particular, your move to the woods.  It will be the correct environment for Jacob.  Please take care".

Day 10 - Thursday 12th May 2011

Coulee City to Spokane        100 miles           DFP 473.5

Thought this would be a tough day due to the mileage but was pleasantly surprised.  Slight climb out of Coulee City then Highway 2 sort of undulates along basically heading east.  Breeze still from the south but not nearly so strong.  Strange to see no hedgerows or trees.  Mostly huge wheat fields, lots of which heads for Japan to be made into noodles.  Called into the Davenport museum where the lady was really helpful with information, including the Centenial Cycle Route which she thought went through to Idaho.  As such there's a possible route change. To that lady, "Thanks for all your help".  Camped at Riverside State Park in Spokane.  Good long day which has hopefully banked some cycling hours which I may need when I get into the Rockies.

Updated: Sandpoint, Washington (library).

Day 9 - Wednesday 11th May 2011

Wenatchee to Coulee City          70.5 miles         DFP 373.5

Thought today would be easy.  Wrong.  Started off OK with 20 miles beside the Columbia River.  At Orondo, Highway 2 turns east and goes up, and up and up.  From 700ish to 2812 feet in about 6 miles.  That constitutes a little toughie.  Ron, I obviously wasn't listening when you told me about this.  Jose did mention last night there was a climb up to the plateau but I wasn't really expecting what I found. Didn't have to get off and walk but did look forward to the level ground at the top.  Wrong again due to the fair breeze, straight into my face until I reach Waterville.  "Thanks" to the lady in the library. Continued east with the wind more side-on from the right.  Spoke to a lady at a farm who mentioned I'd shortly pass through the coulee. When I reached it, it's impressive.  Previously an old river canyon with escarpments several hundred feet high and several hundred yards apart.  Now bone dry but previously a river flowing over a waterful (Palisades) several miles further south, which I'm told was bigger than Niagara.  Reached Coulee City, bought eats and just managed to erect the tent before a storm set in.  I actually camped in scrub just outside the official site to get some protection from the wind/rain and in the morning I asked a lady about a large eagle like bird I'd seen just overhead.  She didn't know its name but said it flew up and down the lake side searching for goslings by the water's edge and rattlers in the scrub.  GULP!!!!!!!

Updated: Sandpoint, Washington.

Day 8 - Tuesday 10th May 2011

Skykomish - Wenatchee               78.5miles          DFP 303.5

Highway 2 continued the nice easy gradient right up to road marker post 55 when things got a little more serious.  Stopped at Deception Falls on Deception Creek for a look and some photos. 

Reached patchy snow and then got above the snow line.  Stevens Pass at 4061 feet was reached just before 1 o'clock.  Another couple of photos. 

Got on the warm clothes for the descent.  Stopped at the '59er' diner for lunch.  Spaghetti for 5 dollars and 2nds for 2 dollars.  You guessed it, I had 2nds. Absolute bargain.

Reached Leavenworth, mid afternoon.  This is a themed Alpine town with the Cascades on the door step.  I'd obviously now reached orchard country.  Lots of cherry trees.  Booked into Wenatchee Confluence State Park later than I'd prefer. Had a nice chat to Jose Velazquez (Park Ranger) who provided some useful information and advice.  Jose, "Thank you".

Updated: Waterville, Washington (library).

Day 7 - Monday 9th May 2011

Poulsbo - Skykomish       68 miles           DFP 225

Ron stoked me up with a big breakfast and I had to say cheerio.  Would have loved to stay longer.  Maida and Ron, "I had a super time.  Thank you for everything.".

Headed towards Kingston ferry and on arrival at the booth,
Me:   "Myself and the bike to Edmonds please".
Girl:  "Cyclists' pay on their return at the other side".
Me:   "But I'm not coming back over"
Girl:  "Then it's your lucky day".
Me:   "Well, it sure is. Thank you".

Left Edmonds by the 524 and 522, then Highway 2 taking me into the Cascade Mountains.  The road is a joy.  Follows the railway and Skykomish river with roughly the same gradient.  Hardly knew I was climbing.  At Sultan, the Cascades ahead looked like the Highlands, low cloud making them dark and foreboding.  A little further however and their true size could be seen.  We've nothing like this in Scotland.  Got to the Money Creek campground to find it hadn't officially opened for the season yet but due to the time, I'd no choice but to set up the tent on a pitch by the river.  Super.   Saw my first beaver stumps this afternoon.

Updated: Waterville, Washington (library). 

Day 6 - Sunday 8th May 2011

Rest Day

Guess what?  Doug took me to Safeco Stadium and we watched the Seattle Mariners play Chicago White Sox at baseball. How cool is that. 

I should now be able to understand what's going on when I next see a game on TV, now the rules have been explained.  To reach the stadium, we had to cross Paget Sound using the ferry there and back, with views of Seattle.

Returned for a lovely meal, before turning in fairly early as I hit the road again in the morning.

Regarding the possible route change as mentioned in Today's the Day entry, on mentioning my thoughts, Ron and Doug pointed out State 20 is still currently closed due to late winter snows.  So I'm back to using Highway 2 over to Wenatchee.

Updated: Kingston, Washington (library).

Day 5 - Saturday 7th May 2011

Sequim - Poulsbo   54 miles                (DFP 157 miles)

Rained stopped overnight, so it was dry when I returned to Sequim and had my first Burger King breakfast so far.  With coke and lots of it. Called it at Mike's Bike shop but by then the creaking had stopped and things seemed fine.  Back to the Olympic Discovery Trail, which I just can't praise enough, to its present end at Blyn.  Rain started soon after but followed me off and on as I used 101, 104, 3 and Big Valley Road back to Poulsbo.  The road up to Maida and Ron's house I knew was steep, having come down it on Wednesday but from the bottom it can only be described as a 300 yard beast.  Absolutely impossible to ride with a load, if at all.  May try later today without panniers.  Edinburgh is called the hilly city but it's tame compared to Poulsbo.  So what I'm really having to admit is,  I had to get off and walk.  Even that was a struggle. 

Maida and Ron had prepared dinner and invited Doug and his wife Bernie. So lovely end to the day.
So the initial 4 days of cycling have gone really well.  Rest day today and I'm doing something special.  You'll have to wait to hear what.  The suspense.

Updated: Poulsbo, Washington.                     

Day 4 : Friday 6th May 2011

Clallam Bay - Sequim   85 miles                                                     (DFP 103)

Started with a leisurely breakfast, listening to Bill and Joan's stories of living and working in the area.  The expeditions into the Olympics, Bill's canoe building expertise and their involvement with the local people.  Could have listened for ages. Eventually dragged myself away and after taking some photos,

headed through Clallam Bay. Shortly after, it started raining.  All part of what I expected. State road 112 doesn't have a wide hard shoulder, so traffic passes much closer but there's not a lot of it.  The timber trucks are a bit scary but as they can be heard coming from way back, there's time to take up a safe position.  By the time I was returning through Port Angeles and Sequim, I think it's safe to say I was 'drookit'.  Wet through and through.  Camped at Sequim Bay State Park on the edge of Sequim Bay.  Got the tent up just as it was getting dark.  Then went for a shower (if I wasn't wet enough) and came out no more than 10 minutes later to find it was pitch dark.  Tent was only 50 yards away but could I find it. Nope. It was so dark, I couldn't even follow the tarred track to it.  Fumbled about for about 15 minutes before stumbling on to it.  Bit of a relief.  I'm now reliably informed there's very little twilight here and when in a forest or woodland it gets very dark, very quickly. One minute it's light the next it's dark, so lesson seems to be, always have a torch handy.   It was during today, I regretted not taking photos on Wednesday because today the mountains weren't even visible due to the low cloud and rain.  I also noticed the bike's bottom bracket was beginning to play-up again, with every now and again a few clicks or creaks being evident.

Updated: Poulsbo, Washington.

Day 3 - Thursday 5th May 2011

Joyce to Cape Flattery and back to Clallam Bay    93 miles       (Distance from Pacific  18)                     

Rained overnight at Salt Creek Campsite but was dry when I got up.  Very overcast and drizzly most of the morning.  Reached the town of Clallam Bay and ate.  Also called into the 'visitor centre' staffed by volunteers,  Joan and Bill Riedel, who on hearing about my trip, very kindly and warmly asked me to stay with them.  Such generosity.  Having accepted the offer, I continued on towards Neay Bay and saw my first golden eagle of the trip so far.  Also a couple of ravens. Visited the Makah nation/tribal museum in Neah Bay and should have given it half a day. It's worth the time. 

Continued on to Makah Bay which was to be the official start but then felt I really had to go to Cape Flattery, accepted as being the far north west tip of mainland USA.  Turned out to be a slight mistake, as the Pacific Ocean can't be seen from the car park due to the forest. The walking trail to the beach would have been impossible with the bike.  So back to Makah Bay where the bike's wheels were dipped in the Pacific for the official photo shoot. 

As it was getting late, I headed back the road to Joan and Bill's house which is near Kydaka Point to the west of Clallam Bay.  And what a house. A log cabin right on the edge of the Straight of Juan De Fuca and overlooking Vancouver Island.  Joan and Bill, I cannot thank you enough for your kindness and your experiences were a joy to hear.  Keep up the good work.  Please take care.

Updated: Clallam Bay, Washington (library).

Day 2 - Wednesday 4th May 2011

Poulsbo to Joyce            90 miles

Got the bike and panniers set up and all was fine.  Out to the road but after a couple of trips round the turning circle, realised I was going clockwise instead of anticlockwise to be on the correct side of the road.  Ron made breakfast and I was off.   Only got 50 yards before I was stopped.  By the view!  From the end of the street the whole of the Olympic mountains range is visible but this morning it was only the summits poking above low cloud.  Breathtaking and what a start.  Headed west, crossing the Hood Canal floating bridge, before passing Discovery Bay. 

On reaching Sequim Bay I came across the Olympic Discovery Trail which is for walkers and cyclists only.  It's 30(ish) miles long, has a mainly tarred surface but with some wooden bridges and walkways. At Sequim, I stopped to eat.  A muckle roll, filled with loads of cold meats, salad and relishes.  Weighed a ton.  Loads of calories and carbs.  Also called in at a bike shop (Chamois Butt'r - tlc of nether region) and an outdoor shop (burner and gas) in Port Angeles.

Found the Salt Creek recreation area campsite near Joyce at the end of a wonderful day.  Sunshine and no rain or wind. Only mistake was not taking any photos.  Made the decision to pick the locations today and take the pictures on my return in a couple of days when I'd have more time.  What do they say about striking when the iron is hot!  I found no problems with cycling on the main Highways as they all have hard shoulders which are generally 2 to 3 yards wide, giving loads of room from the vehicles. What a difference from the A82!!!!!Super.

Updated: Clallam Bay, Washington (library).

Day 1 : Tuesday 3rd May 2011

Perfect day to fly out.  Totally clear sky.  Was allocated a left window seat and on taking to the air the plane banked left giving a super view of Inchcolm Abbey on its island in the Firth of Forth and both road and rail bridges.  Heathrow terminal 5 was an experience.  The US flight left on time and took the same route north as my Heathrow flight going south.  Past over Glasgow and Loch Lomond and shortly after I was able to look down at the route I cycled south from Skye last week.  The plane was then over the Outer Hebrides.  Iceland, Greenland and over to the Baffin Islands were all bathed in sunshine.  Arrived in Seattle where Ron and his friend Doug met me at the airport.  The bike appeared undamaged but I've still got to check it fully tomorrow morning.  Everything was loaded into the car and we left Seattle by ferry over Paget Sound for Bainbridge Island.

Maida was at the house awaiting our arrival and made me very, very welcome.  Lovely meal.  The house is just super.  First day has gone perfectly,  so can only hope it continues.

Updated: Poulsbo, Washington.

Today's the day

OK folks.  I'm for the off.  11.45 this morning from Edinburgh to Heathrow, then quarter past three to Seattle, arriving at ten to five this afternoon US time.  Hopefully along with all the bags and undamaged bike, which at the moment is tucked up in its cardboard box.  It makes a huge difference knowing I'm being met by Maida and Ron.  But its still rushing time just now.

Possible change to my planned route after I return to Poulsbo from dipping the front wheel in the Pacific.  I had intended cycling through Seattle and picking up Federal 2 over to East Wenatchee, then on to Spokane and up to Newport on the Washington/Idaho boundary. I now think it would be better to travel north from Poulsbo to Anacortes and take State 20 all the way to Newport.  While it might be hillier, it's probably quieter, more scenic and there appears to be more campsites along the way.

Anyway, got to go.  Plane to catch. Not said that for a long, long time! You all please take care.  And so will I.